We entered the Ngorongoro Conservancy, where live many Maasai. They were moved here from the Serengeti when it became a National Park mid-last-century. In five years, they will be moved again, because their population has increased a lot, and because Ngorongoro soon will become a National Park. Unlike other people, Maasi are allowed to live in the Conservancy, because they don’t kill what they cannot keep in herds; in other words, they don’t kill wild animals. We saw their large herds of goats, and a few cattle, with herd boys driving the animals or standing by watching. Their walled villages dot the countryside. One of the oldest locations of human and pre-human bones is inside the Conservancy. The internationally famous Olduvai Gorge is marked by an excellent small museum. Before ... read more

We were driven to the tourist centre where we bought the balloon tickets. The others of our group were there, walking through an outdoor display about local geography, geology and history. Information signs told the story of the wild-life parks, inspired and created by former President Julius Nyere and zoologist Bernard Grzimek. We spent the remaining morning on a game drive, moving in the direction of our camp. We saw two Lappet-face Vultures looking for prey from a tall dead tree, and they nicely waited for our picture-taking before soaring away. As a matter of course, wildebeest and zebras roamed the land, dashing one way or another in search of water and safety. We saw one lion on her back under a tree, sleeping off a full belly. Quite soon, we saw a prid... read more

Reunited with the group, our own lunch was eaten in a picnic site at the Ndabaka Gate, the entrance to West Serengeti. We sat dispersed at picnic tables, facing the wide plain beyond the wire security fence. Other than a few zebras, we didn’t see any big animals, which gave me a chance to focus on the birds that sought our crumbs. Most beautiful in colour and name were the Superb Starlings. Unlike dull brown Canadian starlings, these were large and magnificent with superb purple and blue feathers. As they poked at bits on the ground, the iridescence of their plumage glowed. Resuming our drive, Lucas caught sight of a leopard balanced on the branch of a date tree, sleeping off its full belly. Remains of the kill were up on the branch with it. How ... read more

We were driving into Central Serengeti along the Western Corridor. Over 100 kilometres, the route was all on rough stone/dirt roads. At what seemed like a high speed (probably about 50 - 60 kph), we careened through big potholes and deep ruts. Later I learned that the speed reduces the effect of the corduroy conditions by hitting the tops of the ruts. Obviously, Jay Kim knew his job, and part of which was to get to the camp before dark. Even so, he and Edward, the other new driver, were generous in stopping the vehicles to watch wildlife being themselves. Almost immediately we stopped to watch a mother and a juvenile elephant pulling and crunching green bushes. Soon we saw a line of bachelor elephants crossing on the plain; male elephants roam together during their early ... read more

20221103 Maasai Mara Part 2 Thursday About mid-day, we pulled up in a scruffy barren area. I was wondering why when someone exclaimed that a small concrete monument marked the border between Kenya and Tanzania. Shaken out of our somnolence, we leapt out of the vehicles. A solemn plaque forbade entry into Tanzania, although Lucas assured us that a twenty-metre grace was allowed; beyond that anyone, particularly poachers and smugglers, could be prosecuted if found by rangers. We took silly photos across the imaginary line. Large birds stalked across the landscape, presumably finding insects and grasses to their taste. Sometimes the ostriches pecked almost continuously, and sometimes they just strolled aimlessly. Seen in the wild, their incongruous shape seems quite natural. From a distance, the full feathered body could be mistaken for a termite mound. The ... read more