The sun is muted by the water into gradients of baby blue while darker sapphire obscures the ocean’s depths. I might be looking out for miles without exaggeration. Big turtles and white-tip sharks, one to two meters long, swim behind a hazy blue curtain, giving perspective on distance and visibility. I equalize my ears and sink lower, unable to take in every detail that vies for attention on the coral wall. Kaleidoscopes of fish flicker every which way. I'm in an otherworld on par with Dr. Seuss’s imagination. This is Sipadan, for the Big Stuff. If poetry takes physical form, surely, the ocean provides one of the most prosaic experiences. Sharp, crackling sounds travel through the water (4x the speed of sound in air). Every diver turns a different direction while trying to pinpoint the sound’s ... read more

After an unremarkable day exploring the city of Kinabalu in Borneo and its immorally gigantic rats, I open the door to my dorm and this random girl asks, as if discussing the weather, “Want to go river rafting tomorrow?” Padas River: Mud Rafting Annabelle, my new friend from the UK, and I are picked up by the Riverbug crew early next morning. After an hour or two, we transfer to a train. This rusty contraption has been running since the 19th century, and, following our guides, we roast our skin on the cargo platform. If you prefer, you can grab a seat in the car, but you'll lose the adventure. The rail tracks follow the river at a vertical angle giving us a view of a semi-truck’s skeletal remains in the muddied water. We toss jokes ... read more

The plane flies over islands outlined in turquoise rings and coasts over rolling, dark green hills into Medan City. Purchasing the $25 visa and clearing immigration takes longer than the hour-long flight. I try learning basic Bahasa Indonesia without success. It's a little intimidating walking around the small, dingy airport without a clue of the local language. There are no obvious tourists besides myself, and hungry looking taxi drivers everywhere. One approaches and asks, “Where are you going?” “Lake Toba,” I say. He rips me off at 200,000 rupiah, but I also didn't feel like bargaining, arguing, or searching for another ride. On my return trip, I’m charged 65,000rp in a nice air-conditioned taxi with no bargaining involved. Going rate seems to be 65-75,000rp. The Lizard King and Drinking Water: How to Reach Lake Toba I’m ... read more

There are ups and there are downs with travel as in all things. Little did I know that this day would be one of the longest so far in my travels. 4:30PM Past boarding time and the doors remain closed. Lines are formed. Everybody gives a look of relief once the crew begins collecting tickets. It’s just a 55 minute flight, so I’m not too worried. 6:00PM Arrived in LCCT. With half-an-hour to make my connecting flight, I jog to the transfer gate. I reach the counter and two workers give welcoming smiles. I gasp for breath and ask, “I have a connecting flight to Tiger Airways in 25 minutes and I’m afraid I may miss it.” The woman nods and smiles making everything seem okay. She starts loading the machine for a boarding pass, then ... read more

I realize that no trip will ever be the same for anyone—never the same ray of sun or cloudy skies, religious Sams, or Ramadans. Each journey is a unique strand intertwining in and out of a city’s braid. Ipoh to Cameron Highlands At Ipoh Bus Station, there is a mess of buses, and I fail to discover a means to find mine. The woman who sold me the Kurnia Bistari bus ticket says, “Just go there.” I look at my ticket for a clue and finally realize it corresponds with the license plate numbers. I wander about looking for the correct plate. Beside me are other foreigners whose lost expressions reflect my thoughts. One Irish couple and I find reassurance in our mutual helpless state, so we just stand, wait, and chat. The wife is eager ... read more