Jaisalmer is wonderful - a hot, dusty, desert town, 60kms from Pakistan's border, with a 12th century fort on top of a hill. I can't work out if it's falling down or being built up - there are small building sites everywhere. But the direct Delhi trainline has only recently sprung into action, so I imagine that within a decade, this sleepy little place will look like downtown Mumbai...I totally fell in love with the beautiful havelis and incricate, carved stonework on people's homes inside the fort. We s Stayed at the Shahi Palace just outside the fort, with the brothers - and they are building one hotel each, so there'll be other great places to stay within a year or so. The Shahi has fabulous red sandstone rooms and a rooftop restaurant overlooked by the
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