Back in Italy again: golden light, perfect coffee, gelati, tumble-down charm. My first day there - in Romeo and Juliet's hometown Verona - turned out to be the last proper day of summer - a humid, sultry and sunny 31 degrees until a massive storm hit Verona in the early afternoon. At the time I just happened to be standing alone in the highest bell tower in the town - clinging to the wall in an alcove as a gale and the horizontal rain did their best to yank me into oblivion. Wwoofing in Veneto (Willing Workers on Organic Farms, for the uninitiated) turned out to be a rather different experience than last year in Tuscany. There we were living in a castle, making high-brow comedy short films, chatting about the different herbs you can make
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