OMG! After almost a year of planning we are days away (and counting) from setting off. You'd think twelve months would be time enough to make sure everything was in place but, you know, life ..... Despite all good intentions to keep key information in one handily available notebook, this brightly coloured, can't-miss-it, personal organiser has proved to be a master of disguise and is never anywhere to be found when needed, even when in plain view. I now find myself operating from various check lists, post-its, scrappy bits of paper and mid-night mental memoranda that I hope will still be lurking somewhere in my brain the following morning in full consciousness. I've learned to listen to that faint tinkling in the old grey matter, hoping it turns into a full-blown cacophony of alarm bell-ringing, reminding
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