Valerie Bernard

Valerie75

Valerie Bernard

I'm a blogger from Canada. From May 1st to the end of August, 2009, I will be touring Scotland. Wandering up the west and northern coast until I reach the Shetland Islands. This blog is to document my travels, thoughts and experiences as I meander through the Highlands and Islands.



Europe » United Kingdom » Scotland » Sutherland » Durness August 1st 2009

I have developed a fairly fun rule for travel: always accept. Why not? I mean, within reason, but generally speaking, unlike in my home life, here if someone invites me to a pub or for dinner or on some kind of adventure, I say 'sure, why not?' And the result is that I've had wonderful times with all sorts of people that I'd normally have ruled out from the get-go. Take Durness, for example. I went on a tour of a sea cave and on this tour was a girl who seemed particularly eager to befriend me. Turned out that we were camping at the same campground. She invited me to hang out with her after the tour. Sure, why not? Leaving the boat, the somewhat odd man doing the tour, recognizing my new friend from ... read more


I am in paradise. I am on the west side of the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides staying in my 4th Gatliff Trust hostel (of the same collection as the rustic hostel I last wrote about). This hostel is actually in a national heritage site and museum -- the bunkhouse is one of 6 preserved 'blackhouses' -- a traditional Norse stone thatched-roof longhouse. Few people realize that you can stay here and when they learn you can, they assume you would have to have booked long in advance. But you don't. You don't book at all. And so far, each night has only had a total of 6 or 7 lodgers -- less than half full. But we are perfectly placed here. I can't imagine a better location, nor time to be here. The ... read more
Calendish stones
Garenin Village
Sea cliff


After following along the endless white sand beaches of the western coast of the western isle of South Uist, I came at last to the Scottish Youth Hostel Association (SYHA)-affiliated hostel in Thob Mhor (Howmore). I didn't know what to expect of this little hostel. I had tried to make a reservation here when I was at the SYHA in Glasgow, but was told they don't take any, that there was no phone and no internet. 'I think you'll just have to show up,' the young woman at reception told me. And then no other directories at the independent hostels even suggested there was any accommodation in Howmore at all. Arriving in the small village, which is little more than a post office and petrol station about half way up the long narrow island of South ... read more
Howmore hostel
View of the beach
'forever beach'

Europe » United Kingdom » Scotland » Lanarkshire » Glasgow May 26th 2009

I am embarrassed to write this entry. I am hanging my head in shame. My first attempt to hike the West Highland Way was a pretty dismal failure. But in my defence, I have never long-distance hiked before. It was bound to be a rocky start. In retrospect, starting with a 7-day, 95 mile hike through rugged, hilly Highland territory all by my lonesome was pretty... ambitious... if not just plain fool-hearty. It went like this. I intended to start on Monday, May 18. I was a barrel of nerves about it -- still only one day after getting back from my difficult hiking experience on the Isle of Arran (see last blog entry). Late in the afternoon on Sunday, I checked the weather forecast. Not good. Rain. Cold, cold rain. I made a snap decision: ... read more

Europe » United Kingdom » Scotland » Buteshire » Isle of Arran May 17th 2009

When preparing for this trip I was relying heavily on a book called 'The Advanced Backpacker' by Chris Townsend. He has a section devoted to what an experienced backpacker friend of his calls 'the shake down'. He says that even the most experienced backpacker/hiker goes through a period of self-doubt at the outset of a long hike. 'For a hike of a few weeks, it can last days; for a hike of a few months, it can last weeks.' He warns that more than half of hikers give up on long-distance hike plans in the first few weeks. Me, being the fool that I am, have set off to do this massive undertaking without any real experience. So I've tried to include in my planning time for gradual immersion into long-distance hiking. My time as a ... read more
valerietemp 117
valley

Europe » United Kingdom » Scotland » Lanarkshire » Glasgow May 12th 2009

The tourism part of my trip is coming to an end: tomorrow I take my first camping-hiking trip to the Isles of Arran and Islay (pronounced Ille-lah, I've learned). But today I'm enjoying my 3rd day in Glasgow. I can't get over how beautiful this country is. I had a great time in Edinburgh. I was worried about the hostel when I booked it: a 14-bed dorm room and only £11 per night. Surely a terrible dive, I thought. But I'd forgotten an important rule in backpacking travel: just because it's the cheapest, doesn't mean it's not the coolest. As I've written in other entries, it was a very chilled out and friendly atmosphere. The place was chalk full of Canadians. I think half the staff was Canadian. Even for a loner like me, you couldn't ... read more

Europe » United Kingdom » Scotland » Midlothian » Edinburgh May 4th 2009

I don't know if I've ever been anywhere more beautiful than this. I expected crossing into Scotland to be something like crossing into Quebec -- with a huge sign, waving flags and completely different signage to let you know unequivically that you are in a different nation. But the route my bus took from London to Edinburgh had nothing of the sort. But still, without the signage, you knew beyond a doubt that you'd entered Scotland. You turn a corner and all of a sudden the landscape bursts open with lush rolling green (so green!) hills, sheep pastures and castles in the distance. Just as you'd expect. Only more beautiful than you could have imagined. I left London after only 2 days, taking the bus directly to Edinburgh. You would think that with 20 weeks I'd ... read more

Europe » United Kingdom » England » Greater London April 30th 2009

I'm normally not this nervous when I travel. I got my flight from Fredericton to London-Gatwick without a hitch, but I was a bag of nerves through the whole process. My sister wisely saved me from being interviewed at the airport on a local radio station -- I was on a surprisingly packed pioneering international flight direct from Fredericton to the UK. A woman approached me as I waited with my family before going through security at the tiny airport. She wondered if I'd agree to a one minute interview. My sister shook her head as I contemplated agreeing. 'I know you,' she said after I declined, 'it will ruin your whole trip. You'll kick yourself thinking you said something stupid.' Quite right. Besides, my story of what I'm doing is too complicated and unlikely to ... read more




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