Rio Claro - A crystal river, a drug lord and burning souls. It has been a pretty hectic Christmas and New Year, and from the title you can guess a little more madness has occurred. But before I get carried away, let me take a deep breath and start at the start. Tina, Moka, Isabel and Hernando, get up at the crack of dawn and head off for a road trip. Back in the Magdalena valley, the humidity makes my legs heavy with protest, and crave the cool environment of the air-conditioned car. But bravely I push on, and am rewarded with a host of splendidly restored brightly coloured colonial buildings, with balconies to dream about. Honda, (the town of bridges - with at least 15) is like a lot of towns, the older parts are
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