The weather in Irkutsk had steadily deteriorated over the weekend, becoming colder with the snow falling constantly. The homestay was gradually getting warmer and more uncomfortable as unregulated hot water flowed into the radiators, the only way to cool the room was to open the window. The final breakfast a vast improvement on the others, perhaps because two new guests from Switzerland had arrived. Pancakes, cheeses, ham, jams and real butter, Olga really had pulled the stops out for my final morning. Sad to move on I said my goodbyes and arrived at a cold station platform where I met the Aussie sisters, we boarded the 8pm train to Moscow, the start of our epic four night journey to the capital city. The first night was uncomfortable and incredibly hot in the cabin. The train rattled
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