Page 3 of Sepulchre Travel Blog Posts

Middle East » Iran » South » Kerman July 11th 2010

After a day or so of sightseeing and meeting the locals in Yazd I planned to head south again. The next city was Kerman and from there I would venture to the eerie desert sculptures in the desert of Kaluts. I wanted to travel there by train. I was a bit tired of all the buses and wanted to relax for the journey which is what train travel provides. However this is Iran and things aren't really the same here. I arrived at Yazd railway station by taxi at half an hour before the 5.30 departure. I waited in the foyer with everyone else in headscarves, chadors and men with the usual uniform of plain trousers, belt and long sleeved shirt. The train was late by an hour and I'm already yawning. Despite this line having ... read more
Yazd to Kerman 18 - June 23 2010
Kaluts 5 - June 24-25 2010
Kaluts 62 - June 24-25 2010

Asia » Armenia » West » Yerevan July 10th 2010

My options of getting to Armenia from Iran were somewhat limited. I could either take an overnight bus from Tabriz which would involve the extended bureaucratic bollocks at the border and twenty seven hours without sleep. The alternative in my head was to cross into Turkey and then quickly into Armenia - but their borders are closed (what with the rather silly argument over the Armenian Genocide 100 years ago). The only other viable option was to take a bus back down to Tehran and get on a plane to the Armenian capital - that also might be my last (the previous summer a flight on the Tehran-Yerevan route had fallen out of the sky killing everyone on board). I opted for the coach which I knew would be a test of endurance. In Tabriz, the ... read more

Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd July 6th 2010

So I left Esfahan on a coach headed south and I knew it would get even hotter. I could already see the heat give the road and the distant mountains on either side of the motorway a purple haze. Yazd is a very historic city, stuck in the desert between two mountain ranges -it was once an important trade route - Marco Polo stopped here on his to and fro from China in the 12th Century. It gets so hot here in the summer that there are many old wind towers - called badgirs - that capture the hot wind, cool it with water and then distribute it around a house. The old city also had plenty of sights and lots of old mosques. Upon arrival in Yadz I got a taxi to the Old City ... read more
On the way south
Jameh Mosque, Yadz
Wind Towers (badgirs) in old city

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan July 6th 2010

Chang and I arrived in a hot Esfahan in the middle of the afternoon. We entered Kavan bus terminal to find out the departure times from Esfahan. But if you don’t read Farsi (which is in Arabic script) things are difficult to find in Iran. Luckily we immediately saw a desk manned by young women with headscarves and copious amounts of makeup. She spoke decent English and helped us on our way. However, outside the terminal were the wolves - otherwise known as taxi drivers. Surrounding us as they jostled with each other and shouting out English words whilst trying to grab our bags; my guard was immediately up. This time I kept quiet and watched Yang do the talking. One guy started off by offering 5,000 Tomans (5 dollars) to our hotel before adding “very ... read more

Middle East » Iran » North » Kashan June 29th 2010

Sa-lam again from Iran and chet-ou-rey? - how are you? I’m having a wondrous time here in Iran, this place ticks all of the boxes; good weather, layers upon layers of history with accompanying ancient ruins, inquisitive people, friendly people, hospitable people, that happened to be rather oppressed because of a culture dictated by religious fundamentalisms and utterly foreign to a Western traveler like myself. I’m in my element. Travelling south from Tehran on a modern Volvo coach I headed for the town of Kashan, bypassing the city of Qom. Why? Its where the hard-line mullahs who run Iran all live and thus is a conservative place for anyone to stay. When I say conservative I mean unsmiling sombre mullahs in beards and robes walking around and women covered form head to toe in black chadors ... read more
Kashan mansion

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran June 17th 2010

16 June 2010 Salam from Iran! Get this: I’m actually watching the BBC hospital drama ‘Casualty ’ in my room in Tehran. This is just one of many strange and wonderful things I’ve experienced since I arrived in the Islamic Republic of Iran. Iran!? But firstly nearly everyone who I've told about my trip to Iran has looked at me aghast and replied: “Iran? Isn’t it dangerous?”. Barring a dodgy (separatist)part of south eastern Iran in the province of Sistan Baluchestan it’s perfectly safe - think of it as a part of London’s, say Kensel Green, being ... read more
Sha's bedrrom = White Palace
Ever present veil
American embassy walls

Asia June 14th 2010

So I’ve finally left Australia, I was there so long I was beginning to get complacent and forgot that there were countries and cultures out there. So my first travel was a low-budget flight with Air Asia X from Melbourne to Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia. It was an 8 hour flight in total and there was no on-board TVs, movies, nothing. The food I had to pay for in advance and it came in a heated up metal box and it wasn’t particularly exciting - roasted chicken lumped with runner beans. I managed to survive it all with a mixture of the second last episode of Deadwood watched on my notepad and reading as well as taking lots of pictures of the amazing clouds and landscapes flying over the top of Australia and the ... read more

Oceania » Australia » Victoria » Melbourne » Brunswick June 12th 2010

Well it’s very cold this week, bitterly cold. But the sun still shines and it’s interesting being in the southern hemisphere and Australia where a hat, gloves and scarf are required. I arrived in Australia nearly 12 months ago and it was the same conditions then in way-off over there Perth, Western Australia - so I feel like I've come full-circle in my head. It’s fair to say that I’ve on the receiving end of some rather generous acts of kindness from various people since arriving in Melbourne. Whether it be turning up at Christen's place and letting me stay for a few days which has turned into never having left. Claire has taking me out on weekends to the mining town of Bendigo and the famous wine country of Yarra Valley. Robert buying me a ... read more

Oceania » Australia » Victoria » Melbourne » Brunswick June 9th 2010

Melbourne Diary: As I'm walking along a busy Elizabeth Street in the Central Business District two teenage girls are walking behind me. “Fack that! Fack that! No facking way” etc. It got me thinking about how many times I’ve been shocked by the proclivity for cursing here. Keep with me. For example on I've witnessed a couple of altercations between passengers trading some seriously aggressive swearing such as: "go fuck yourself!" and “Up ya, ya facking cant” - and that was from a woman. I’ve turned into Disgusted of Brunswick all of a sudden. Even my work colleagues regularly surprise me by using ”fack” and “shit” in mid-sentence as if it's any old word. Coarse language features prominently in Australia it seems (I could of course make reference to sixty years of British criminals being sent ... read more

Oceania » Australia » Victoria » Melbourne » Brunswick May 16th 2010

“Isn’t Melbourne supposed to be boring?” asked my eldest sister over the phone from England. It’s true that visitors don’t seem to stay more than a few days at a time - which I suspect is due to the lack of block-buster sights of say Sydney with its harbour and bridge. I didn’t have high expectations of Melbourne myself, as a self-confessed culture vulture - I had assumed that the diversity (I promise to use that term only once) of everything my London offered would be missing here; whether it be the lively and historic pub crawls, block-buster art exhibitions, film festivals, gigs, markets, walks or talks. So, armed with a Lonely Planet Guide to Melbourne (which by the way is the home of LP), the counsel of an American house mate who’d been here five ... read more
NGV art
The city
The city

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