We were greeted by ornate costumes, enthusiastic drummers and dancers, and dramatic dragon and demon heads menacing our approach to the terminal. Surabaya is the second largest city in Indonesia (3.5M people, 1.25M motorcycles and scooters) after Jakarta, and much nicer. It is a major port, a sophisticated commercial and industrial center, and the birthplace of a modern, independent Indonesia. Statues and monuments all over downtown commemorate Indonesia's independence, the expulsion of the Japanese occupational forces, and the personalities that drove the political changes. It is the birthplace of Sukarno, Indonesia's first president. This is what makes it the City of Heroes. Other monuments mysteriously commemorate sharks, marlin and dolphins, and one which stand out honours a stripped-down tugboat mounted on the grassy boulevard, surrounded by baby blue concrete waves. Our
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