A vast, ancient civilisation, stretching from the freezing northeast to the deserts of the west to the subtropical south, there is a climate and environment to suit every wish list. China to the uninitiated is somewhat intimidating, at least it certainly was for us. The visa process alone was almost enough to put us off going, made all the more difficult for us by applying from Japan (and the list of countries I've been to that aren't exactly popular in the eyes of the Chinese authorities). Add to that the scrutiny and surveillance of the controlling government, perceived or otherwise, left us feeling apprehensive for our visit. We headed off for mainland China early on the fast train from Kowloon. This was our first experience of China's high speed trains. Leaving from a modern station, the
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