Page 4 of RENanDREW Travel Blog Posts


Africa » Morocco » Souss-Massa-Draâ » Aït Benhaddou April 13th 2019

For he who builds his kasbah out of halva; beware the nibblers ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling southeast from the High Atlas to Ait Benhaddou. We trekked out of Aroumd (a remote hilltop village in the foothills of the High Atlas Mountains) earlier in the day, jumped into a minibus in the bustling village of Imlil and started a slow winding descent out of the mountains. We spent some time in the lively market village of Asni along the way, and we also relaxed on the sunny terrace of a roadside servo with a cafe nous nous (a local cafe latte). We were travelling southeast to Ait Benhaddou on the edge of the Sahara – a six hour journey by road – and it was midday already! We sped through lowlands on ... read more
berber omelette
tizi n’tichka pass
ait benhaddou

Africa » Morocco » Marrakech-Tensift-El Haouz » Aroumd April 12th 2019

Even the loftiest of mountains begins on the ground ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling south from Marrakesh to Aroumd. We left Marrakesh around 9am and drove through the city with the snow-capped High Atlas looming on the horizon. This alluring and pervasive mountain range dominates the southern skyline of Marrakesh, and it wasn’t long before we were climbing and winding our way up towards the snow. As we ascended, the road narrowed and the scenery changed dramatically. There were steep drops to one side with barely enough room for two cars to pass. Tiny villages were set into arid hillsides, and I wondered what prevented them from tumbling down into the valley below. And all the while, the ever-present High Atlas Mountains towered above us. Near-empty river beds ran along the valley ... read more
mountain mule
trek to aroumd
gite rooftop

Africa » Morocco » Marrakech-Tensift-El Haouz » Marrakech April 10th 2019

Few desires, happy life ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling southwest from Tangier to Marrakesh. After arriving by bus from Chefchaouen that morning and spending the day in Tangier, it was time to travel to Marrakesh on an overnight sleeper train. We shared a meal with a local family, jumped into a minibus and drove to Tanger Ville (Tangier’s train station). We arrived fairly late (10:30pm), but our train wasn’t leaving until 11:30pm, so we had a bit of time to spare. There were very few travellers waiting at the station, so I was surprised to encounter an overly zealous (dictatorial) train guard implementing a strict boarding protocol. Apparently everyone had to board each carriage in the order of their cabin, as this would reduce – if not eliminate – the potential for ... read more
streets of gueliz
msemen flatbread
mint tea and pastries

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier April 9th 2019

He who does not travel does not know the value of men ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling northwest from Chefchaouen to Tangier. We woke early to the call to prayer after a broken night’s sleep – the local dogs had been unsettled for most of the night. I did sleep a little with the help of a couple of paracetamol tablets at midnight, but my sore throat was lingering. I needed it to dissipate, as we had a long travel day to Tangier and then an overnight sleeper train to Marrakesh. We were leaving Tangier at 11:30pm, so we would not have access to a shower until we checked into our Marrakesh hotel tomorrow morning. We headed down to the dark hotel restaurant for breakfast around 7:30am. I hydrated with orange juice ... read more
streets of tangier
seafood paella
cap spartel lighthouse

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen April 7th 2019

Though each path is different, there is only one way ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling north from Fes to Chefchaouen. We enjoyed a late breakfast in the ground floor restaurant of Hotel Olympic, which comprised baguettes, boiled eggs, croissants, jam, orange juice and tea. It was a fairly basic affair, but it was nice enough. With an hour or so up our sleeve, we headed out in the brisk morning air and made our way to nearby Avenue Hassan II, which is affectionately (and somewhat overzealously) known as Fes’ Avenue des Champs-Elysees. We used the morning sun to capture a few photos of Fes in light – the city had been shrouded in cloud the day before, and it had been pouring with rain on the night we arrived. There weren’t many ... read more
streets of chefchaouen
goat's cheese drizzled with prune molasses
view from our balcony

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes April 6th 2019

There is no queue at the gate of patience ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling northeast from Meknes to Fes. It was a wet afternoon in Meknes. Heavy rain fell from dark clouds shrouding the city, and a bitter wind swept the empty streets. We emerged from the medina and sheltered as best we could in the shadows of Bab el-Mansour (the city’s iconic gateway) until a taxi arrived. We jumped in, dropped by the hotel where we’d left our packs a few hours earlier and headed to the Meknes train station – we were about to embark on a one-hour train journey to Fes. Moroccan train travel is unbridled and anarchic, and you get to experience the gamut of Moroccan life in the cramped and chaotic confines of your designated carriage. We’d ... read more
pastilla (chicken pie with icing sugar)
royal palace
royal palace

Africa » Morocco » Meknès-Tafilalet » Meknes April 5th 2019

Little and lasting is better than much and passing ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling south from Volubilis to Meknes. After wandering the windblown ruins of Volubilis in the late morning, we jumped into a taxi and headed to the imperial city of Meknes. We’d passed through the city the day before on our way to Moulay Idriss, but our experience had been limited to the train station. We only had a few hours to explore the city this afternoon before continuing on to Fes, so we were hoping the weather would hold out. The dark rain clouds that had been threatening at Volubilis were becoming more and more ominous… It was raining by the time we arrived. We dropped our packs in the storage room of a local hotel, jumped back into ... read more
the waterman
heri es-souani complex - granary
heri es-souani complex - granary

Africa » Morocco » Meknès-Tafilalet » Volubilis April 5th 2019

Endurance pierces marble ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling northwest from Moulay Idriss to Volubilis. We emerged from the steep narrow lanes of Moulay Idriss around 9:30am, piled our packs into a waiting taxi and made our way towards the archaeological site of Volubilis, a mere 10 minute drive from the intriguing hillside village we loved so much. Once a distant outpost of the Roman Empire, Volubilis is located in the middle of an agricultural plain, and we soon discovered we were at the mercy of strong winds that amassed incredible force as they made their way across the flatlands of the Fertassa and Khoumane valleys. There were times I could barely stand, which made it difficult to hold a steady camera for photos. I couldn’t help but question Rome’s logic as we ... read more
volubilis ruins
volubilis ruins
volubilis ruins

Africa » Morocco » Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer » Rabat April 4th 2019

If at noon the king declares it is night, behold the stars… ~ Moroccan Proverb HE SAID... Today we were travelling northeast from Casablanca to Rabat. We were catching a morning train to Rabat, so we headed down to the hotel lobby for an early breakfast. Breakfast was a reasonably simple affair, but enjoyable all the same. We started with freshly squeezed orange juice and mint tea, then grazed on baguettes, boiled eggs, croissants and jam. We organised our packs in our room, then loaded them into a minibus and made our way to Casa Voyageurs, one of Casablanca’s three main train stations. The station was empty, so we breezed through the various ticket collectors and settled into our oven-like carriage. We eased out of the station at 9:45am, and stared silently at the decrepit and ... read more
rabat medina
rabat medina
kasbah des oudaias




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