Paul Russell


Paul Russell

Chapter Ten: Epilogue Should you make the trek to Cayo Espanto? If you are blessed with time to spare, flush with cash and see more coming in at an ever-increasing pace, most certainly you should. Money is less valuable to those who have more of it so its potential squandering is of less consequence. If you wish to shun other humans and be, as the ancient actress vamps, “I vant to be alone,” come here. If you desire over-the-top romantic dinners for two set in a secluded and amazingly romantic spot, this is a wonderful choice. If you are merely well off, I would send you elsewhere. Las Ventanas in Cabo comes to mind; so does our annual spot at Novaispania at Cabo’s Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach. You could get a four-bedroom house at Novaispania for ... read more

Chapter 9: Getaway Day I am up early while my love slumbers on. The coffee pot comes to life as do I at this quietest time of the day. I do love early morning with no sounds: No TV, radio, traffic; nothing but ambient noise similar to what might have been decades or even longer ago. There is no escaping the hum of the refrigerator or the low rumble of the circulating HVAC fan but those things are less here because there are fewer of those devices nearby. Cayo Espanto is at its best in the earliest part of the day. There is the sound of this morning’s ripples on the shore, palm fronds rubbing against each other in the breeze and, most pronounced, the morning birds announcing the news of the day to their fellows. ... read more
Maya Tails

Chapter 8: Stormy Weather Dinner was, as it has been every evening, superb. The table is set beautifully in an amazing environment: beneath palm trees on sand decorated via rake or stick with symbols, our initials and a warm “Welcome.” There is a soup course, an appetizer, a main course and dessert; always too much and always quite good. Our final bottle of Kim Crawford goes down easily. Earth has one moon, Mars has two and this night Cayo Espanto has three: one full from the heavens above and two full from Casa Ventanas to our left which, now that there is something to see, somehow seems more visible than I had noticed before. It is the only accommodation thrust out on the water so it is more visible to its neighbors as our neighbors are ... read more
Sand Welcome

Chapter 7: San Pedro Town We request the Cayo Espanto Shuttle to report to our Casa Brisa dock at 12:30 to transport us into San Pedro Town for some local color. Promptly, the boat arrives from the sea side and the staff arrives from the island side. We are presented with a walking map and a flip phone and told to please call the number laminated on the phone lid about ten minutes before we want to be picked up at the town dock for the return to Cayo. Off we go through calm seas rather than the deluge which greeted us when we were last aboard this craft. We were quickly deposited at the dock and then, unexpectedly, given a personal escort past dilapidated hovels to the main street where further instructions were supplied to ... read more

Chapter Six: Humpday We sleep in; B4 longer than I. The sun is already up when I sneak from beneath the mosquito net and quietly push the ‘on’ button on our coffee maker. The way Casa Brisa is constructed, no ambient light creeps in. Rather than curtains or shades we have solid metal shutters and they keep the light at bay. We have but one regular door at Casa Brisa through which one can exit without unfolding the main shuttered walls which serve as daytime ingress and egress. Outside, I am greeted with stillness. Today, at least for now, there is no breeze at Brisa. The water is flat; the persistent chop departed. For the first time, I looked beneath the surface of the now undisturbed surface and, could without the distortion caused by waves, see ... read more

Chapter Five: Paradise Lost? Paradise Found? B4 lost herself in her Swedish massage with the portable massage table set up on our veranda and my iPhone music put on hold in favor of new age, well, massage music. I fled to a shady spot beneath an umbrella and a grove of palm trees to read. My music was the lapping of six inch waves on a constructed sea wall of sorts that surrounds 99% of Cayo Espanto. There are a couple of four to six-foot-long typical beaches but the remainder is short sea wall backfilled with coral sand. It is fine unless you want to walk the beach and then it isn’t fine. Bring sandals or water shoes. Both of us were quite happy with our very different outcomes, her to her massage and me to ... read more

Chapter Four: Red Sky at Morning Both students of sunrises, we seldom sleep late enough to miss one. Today is no exception. But It is still dark beneath a nearly full moon when we, in our waffle robes, stroll down our short dock to look up in the hope of seeing stars and we are, in patches at least, rewarded. The water is crystal clear and only about two feet deep, light green over a sandy bottom punctuated by dark green patches over vegetation. Perhaps unfortunately, the dawn’s sky is red. Often heard is the saying: “Red sky at night, sailors’ delight. Red sky at morning, sailors take warning.” Upon what is that unattributed saying based? If morning skies are red it is because the sun is peeking through a gap of clear sky on the ... read more

Chapter Three: Settling In Around 4:00, Butler Carlos, his assistant Flavio and Chef Richard arrive at Casa Brisa. Richard announces the menu for this evening which offers, after pumpkin soup, a choice of local lobster, snapper or roasted hen followed by a candied apple dessert available whenever we wanted it served. Beryl opts for the snapper and I request that Richard choose for me. Feeling better now, I ask for dinner around seven preceded by a cheese plate and a bottle of 2014 Baron Phillipe de Rothschild sauvignon blanc as soon as it can be arranged. Our staff trio nod enthusiastically and retire to make it so. Don’t be impressed by the wine choice. It’s Chilean and sells for about twelve bucks a bottle in the U.S. and only a bit more at $21 here, but ... read more

Chapter Two: Arrival From my iPhone, quickly Bluetooth paired to the Sony music player In Casa Brisa, Corinne Bailey Rae sings in Choux Pasty Heart, “Sometimes you win; sometimes you lose.” The weather has made us losers this afternoon. Immediately after I came to that realization, God sent a lightning bolt too near for comfort to Cayo Espanto, momentarily drowning out the sound of pounding rain that reduced visibility to fifty yards or so. Our roof served as drum heads for the onslaught of water which, thankfully, fell straight down influenced by not a breath of wind. The downside to that was that the interior of our beautiful lodging was heavy air, open on four sides to the 100% humidity, stirred by a pair of ceiling fans that struggled to keep up. But I am getting ... read more

Chapter One: Anticipation B4 and I have both wanted to vacation at one of those luxury hotels consisting of solitary bungalows perched atop low stilts hovering over crystal clear waters where tropical fish school below as you lounge above, tropical drink in hand, watching the green flash that bursts when the setting sun plunges into a watery horizon. Most of those places are very, very, very, far away. To perch as they do over the water, they must be protected from waves by either a “caye” or an “atoll.” “Caye,“ pronounced “key,” is defined as a small, low-elevation, sandy island on the surface of a coral reef and an “atoll” is a ring-shaped reef, island or chain of islands formed from coral. Mostly, these places exist either in the middle of the Pacific Ocean at Bora ... read more
Belize Screeshot
Cayo Gray

Tot: 0.161s; Tpl: 0.008s; cc: 5; qc: 85; dbt: 0.0861s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (; sld: 1; ; mem: 1.2mb