Another clunking sleeper train takes us south from Hanoi, about halfway down the country to Hue. An 18-hour beast of a journey. We wake about 5am to see the sun rising out of the window, flat green ricefields, people already up working in them. We rattle into Hue about midday. Hue is another walled and moated city, but a bit more relaxed than Hanoi (if Hanoi is London, then Hue is York). We cycle all around the city in the afternoon, just poking about. Come across a few captured US tanks from the 'puppet regime' of the south on display, rusting away quietly. A few friendly waves and smiles from people as we ride along. A man with his wife and two kids out for an afternoon ride (all on the same scooter) strike up a
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