Fraser & Nancy

Nomadic Neaves

Fraser & Nancy

We are back on the road !

See below for what we hope are regular updates and photos.


Asia » Thailand » South-West Thailand » Ao Nang March 12th 2017

After our tear through Vietnam, we flew back to Thailand to wrap up our trip together. Ton Sai is a tiny car-less beach town in the south of Thailand near Krabi, and was a fine place for some serious 'R and R'. The surrounding scenery was fantastic, what with steep cliffs on both ends of the small beach and jagged karst islands everywhere. Here are a few memories of our relaxing time in Ton Sai: watching rock-climbers show off their stuff; Fraser playing beach volleyball while Nancy enjoyed some yoga classes; getting massages; finding some bioluminescent millipedes; and enjoying some fine Chang and Singha products. A few memories that weren't quite so relaxing: being surprised as hell to see base jumpers throw themselves off a cliff face directly above us; fending off bag-stealing monkeys; and hearing ... read more
The dusky langur monkey
The water was so warm!
"Main Street" in Ton Sai

Asia February 18th 2017

We arrived in Ho Chi Minh City (previously called Saigon) after a full day bus ride from Phnom Penh, Cambodia. HCMC is a massive, massive city. There are about 10 million people that live there. There are literally 5 million motor bikes and scooters. Our first impression of the city: 'holy shit, we can never cross a road!'. During our first outing from our hostel we navigated clock-wise around a big square to minimize insane road crossings. However, the next day, using the mysterious southeast Asian laws of traffic (some weird algorithms that always produce a tiny gap, combined with the solid faith that the motorbikes will magically weave around you if you set a steady pace) we were able to navigate around the energetic, fast-paced, loud-talking city. During our trip we adopted a technique that ... read more
Motorbike parking lot... on the sidewalks!
Really good iced coffee.

Asia » Cambodia » South February 5th 2017

Our arrival into Cambodia was extremely peaceful and a little surreal. We got there in the morning before all the giant buses arrived, said goodbye to our little Lao van, dropped our passports, some money and paperwork off at the immigration office, and walked the empty 800 meter crossing to Cambodia. There we boarded our new minibus, where a man on a motorcycle delivered our stamped passports and visas to us. Done in about 15 minutes. We'd heard stories of eternal line-ups, but our crossing was very simple and smooth, and it was a sign of what was in store for us for the next leg of our travels. Nancy really loved Cambodia, but she can't fully explain why. It was just the feeling of being there. Maybe it was something to do with the history ... read more
Walking into Cambodia
Memory bracelets at a mass grave in the killing fields.
In memory of the massacred.

Asia » Laos January 28th 2017

We found Laos an impressive open-hearted land, with gorgeous mountains and lush jungles, which made our trip through the country both a spectacular sight for our eyes and healthy place for our spirits. Despite the title, the weather was nice and hot for our entire stay. The 'chills' part is how our guide entertainingly referred to relaxing. He strongly promoted taking it easy, and we were happy to oblige. One day, we would like to return to trek through the magnificent countryside. Sadly access to a lot of this land is not possible, for reasons we'll detail below. But first a brief history lesson for those not familiar with Laos. We learned all the following from our Lao guide and from the excellent Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise (COPE) organization in the capital,Vientiane, which is also ... read more
Rice field
Working the water buffalo

Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand January 27th 2017

We had a pretty rough start to the south-east Asian part of our tour. Nancy's farewell Madagascar meal -- grilled Zebu with peppercorn sauce, left her in very rough shape -- so we were always very aware of the nearest water closet. Fraser, having had a mysterious allergic reaction and severe skin rash during his last week in Madagascar, was already feeling rather weak. So when he also picked up another case of traveller's diarrhea, combined with Nancy's immune system going wacko (and eventually setting off a bad arthritis flare-up), Thailand found us as a slow-moving, hobbling, bathroom seeking, skinny pair of travellers. Did that stop us? Heck no! But it did call for some changes to our plans. After a couple days of deliberation, we traded in some of our independence and flexibility for the ... read more
Happy Birthday Pad Thai!
Spicy Thai Deliciousness

Africa » Madagascar » Nosy Be January 9th 2017

Volunteering was a blast! Nosy Komba, or Lemur Island, was where we based ourselves for a month. It is a small, road-free, volcanic island off the northwest coast of Madagascar, a few km boat ride from Hell-ville. Our time there working with the Madagascar Research and Conservation Institute (MRCI) was a bit of a flashback to our Junior Ranger days. Some hard work but loads of fun and lots of good people, from all around the world. There were four different volunteer projects going on at the Institute: Marine Conservation, Construction, Teaching English, and Forest Conservation. We'd both picked Forest Conservation before our arrival and ended up very were glad we did. A typical volunteer day at 'camp' went something like this: We'd wake up (in our separate huts -- boys with boys and girls with ... read more
Turtle Cove - our beach at MRCI!
Nancy's hut: Sunset
Our favourite stopping spot on the hike to Anpange, our local village.

Africa » Madagascar » Nosy Be December 18th 2016

Ankarafantsika National Park to Hell-ville, Nosy Be Our steady stream of good travel luck finally ran out. Nancy blamed it on the fact that we didn't use the flower power magic potion from Peru. The trip didn't start off very well: we had to wait outside for two hours in a drenching monsoon-like thunderstorm in the dark for a late taxi-brousse to pick us up from the park. After many worrisome thoughts that it wasn't coming at all, the already fully packed van finally showed up and we loaded our soaked selves and luggage. There was no mistaking this for a luxury van: we were jammed in like sardines and forced to keep our substantial dripping backpacks on our laps. But we were happy to be picked up nonetheless. The happiness didn't last too long though ... read more
Yup...looks broken to me too.
What a name!
Such a poser.

Africa » Madagascar » Nosy Be December 18th 2016

We got to Antanaranivo, or Tana, as Madagascar's capital city is thankfully abbreviated, in early December. It was a busy place. Especially between 12:00 and 3:00, when everyone travels from work and school for lunch and siestas. We found the traffic, smog, and constant tropical heat and humidity made exploring the city a little challenging. At least the cars drove on the "right" side of the road-- both Peru and Tanzania were left lane drivers and often made for some adventurous street crossings for us. Not that crossing the street in Tana was easy though, we still had to be wary of the ubiquitous speeding yellow tuk-tuks and endless old French cars. One of the first things we did in Tana was to take a guided walking tour, where we learned lots. It turns out Madagascar ... read more

Africa » Tanzania » Zanzibar December 7th 2016

Our quite interesting boat ride to Zanzibar took us to Nungwi at the northern tip of the island. It apparently is the second most visited city in Zanzibar, after Stone Town. Nungwi is popular because of its postcard white-sand beaches and sparkling azure water. It was pretty odd to see some Maasai and their cows hanging out with the tourists on the perfect sand beach, which we walked on for miles. The snorkelling right off the beach was ok, but we had to watch for the spiny urchins, which were denser than we've ever seen them. Of course we sampled tasty Zanzibar food, with the pancake/crepe style chapatis being one of our favourites. Chapati, it's what's for breakfast, lunch and dinner! In Nungwi we stayed in a small guest house outside of the resort area, within ... read more
Beautiful beach.
Mini Zanzibar door.
Our local diner.

Africa » Tanzania » East December 2nd 2016

After one very hot, very sweaty bus ride, which took an "African five hours" - meaning nine - and one absolutely terrible-but-can't-stop-watching Bollywood movie, we arrived in Tanga. They say it takes two to Tanga. But in this case it was about ten. We were not even off the bus (we actually still had another stop to go) when a crowd of taxi drivers invaded the bus, hassling us to come with them. They tried to convince us that it was the last stop and there was no other way to get to our hostel. After the bus driver came back from unloading some luggage, he promptly kicked the taxi-drivers off the bus and we continued to the real last stop. There, once again, we were plagued by more taxi drivers. They were worse than the ... read more
Enjoying the three minute ferry ride.
Traditional dhow (fishing boat)

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