For me, the love affair began in Vang Vieng, Laos. Or even before. Many moons ago the breathtaking scenery of Huangyao in the movie, The Painted Veil, left an indelible imprint on my retina. Yes, I admit, I am a sucker for karst mountains. Phong Na, Ba Tu Long Bay, Cat Ba and now Yangshuo, Guangxi province. I am close to Huangyao, I can even smell it. Here in Chauyang we are surrounded by them as they parade themselves down the Li and Yulong valleys. A small parcel of river flat extends in front of you bursting with yellow mustard seed lettuce and warmed by the unseasonal sun peach blossoms unfurl against the next karst mountain. Small villages resplendent with newly built hotels loom over the few remaining mud brick houses. Winding concrete paths lead down
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