The boy you see in the picture is Toula, a young Khmer child who is lucky enough to attend the Happy School. On our previous visit to Phnom Penh, Eva, Leens and I had fallen in love with this little creature, so full of energy and cheek. He had been the only one of the kids who had dared come closer to us 'barangs'', and we had embraced him, literally. Of course, we thought, ''Oh, what a happy little boy in his dirty little clothes'', the typical Western, uneducated response. Now, on my return to the school, I have begun to understand a tiny bit better what some of these kids actually go through, and that their dirty little clothes are not dirty, but filthy, from wearing them in and out, day after day. I have ... read more

This afternoon, I finally managed to get down to Psar Tol Tom Poung, also known more affectionately as the Russian Market. Although Nika instantly accused it of being ‘maket for tourist’, it does stock some lovely goodies which only us Westerners seem to like - crockery without beautifully kitsch puppy dogs and floral patterns favoured by the Khmer. And, yes, I was happy to pay a premium for these. Although not cheap, my little kitchen now boasts four handleless matt-green cups, a matching teapot and two dinner plates, as well as two big bowls, though these do not match as the stallowner could dig up only one of the green bowls, after a thorough search. Oh well, I thought, a quirky, unmatching crockery setting has its advantages too… Prior to my market visit, I had spent ... read more

... AU$100...a new pair of shoes...about 30 skinny lattes...car parking in Melbourne city for 50hrs... Keep listing them, though I cannot imagine you will believe me that in Phnom Penh, US$70 buys you one months rent. Yes, folks, for only US$70, you can live in a one room apartment in the centre of the capital city of the Kingdom of Cambodia. At least that is what my US$70 bought me today. Nika, the Happy School Coordinator/eccentric Khmer lady, picked me up at the guesthouse at 11am for lunch. At around 10 past 1, I was starting to wonder where she had gotten to, as I didn't think her one to be late without notice. Sure enough, a text message drew my attention from Chandler's History of Cambodia, which I am attempting to digest for a second ... read more

Since my return from our amazing journey, one thing I have become exceedingly good at is dreaming. I visited my mother shortly after arriving back in Melbourne, as I was really missing her company, and on the 14-hour drive up to Armidale, I had so much thinking space, that I managed to dream up an entire array of crazy but wonderful ideas. The reason I decided to write just one more blog, as you are probably questioning its appearance in your inbox, is that so many of my friends and family, some with whom I have had little contact since school, have gone out of their way to find out what is happening now that I am back. So, I thought it only suitable to 'keep writing!' in order to update you all. Firstly, I would ... read more

After an interesting bus ride from Hai Phong to Hanoi this afternoon, where we started off with two seats each and ended up with one seat for ourselves and our backpacks - on our laps for a good hour - we have arrived in what I would have to describe as one of the most beautiful quarters in a city I have ever seen. The streets of Hanoi's Old Quarter are full of bustle and action, with street vendors selling baskets full of fresh aromatic bread, old Vietnamese women carrying loads of soup ingredients ready for any customers wanting Pho Bo for breakfast, beautiful Colonial buildings which have been entirely neglected by years of wear and poverty... The energy is, well, energetic. The streets are one-laned, though motos, cars, pedestrians and dogs all make their way ... read more