Page 5 of JonathanCampion Travel Blog Posts


Europe November 27th 2007

When I found my way back to the office after ten days away - more tired than ever, and chastened as opposed to refreshed - there wasn't a heap of papers waiting for me on my desk as I had feared, but instead an important-looking, dark yellow and sky blue bordered cardboard work permit. I am now an official Ukraine resident; some acceptance, perhaps, by the country that is trying so hard to make me hate it. I knew that this week was going to be easier to digest than the two before it; I could get back to spending time with good people and appreciating the fascinating parts of this deeply complicated country. It was never my intention to seek out the ugly side, nor labour on it. I am now a professional Editor/Translator - ... read more
St. Sophia's courtyard.
Ukrainian winter: fur boots and documentaries.
The view from my kitchen window.

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv » Livoberezhna November 23rd 2007

(CONTINUED FROM "DIARY OF A MADWOMAN") *A miserable diary for a troubled fortnight - but there is a much more positive one around the corner. The traumotologist ordered me to keep to "a blanket regime" for ten days to allow the concussion to mend. I couldn't go outside, watch television or even read. Work was out of the question. Instead of getting dressed for the office on Friday morning I fluffed up my pillows on the sofa-bed, sorted the four different types of pills I had to take into a row on top of the piano, and tried to think as little as possible about the witch who had organised for this nightmare to happen. Jared, Joel and Ana were all at work during the day so I only had Puppy, the boisterous cat with the ... read more
Puppy.
Jared and Joel's street.
Joel.

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv » Livoberezhna November 15th 2007

Those kicks to the forehead and face, which shook me into a concussion while lying on a cold Vinohradar street, happened in slow motion, and will stay with me forever. We had been evicted earlier that day. Ana had phoned Nataliya Petrovna from work, to explain that she wouldn't be paying November's rent as we had been invited to stay with our American friend while we look for a new flat. Nataliya Petrovna screamed at Ana to get our belongings out by midnight - not the next morning as we planned - and cursed that it left her paying for the whole flat, not just her half. We honestly thought that she would pay the same rent no matter what. When we arrived back to Prospekt Radyanskoi Ukrainy we threw everything into our bags and suitcases ... read more

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv » Respublikanskii Stadion November 12th 2007

This is my first diary for a fortnight, because on the night that my last one was published I suffered concussion while Ana and I were moving to a new flat, and since then I have been too ill to write. At 4 the next morning we finally arrived at Jared's apartment in Livoberezhna. I was told by a traumotologist to rest in bed for the next ten days and to sleep as much as possible, but a sequence of events led to Ana being put in prison for a night, and a woman planning to kill us. Since then it has been hard to close my eyes at all. My next two diaries will explain everything, but they need time and energy to be written properly. Three days of peace gave me some time to ... read more

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv » Nivki October 31st 2007

Saturday after midnight, on a street in the Vinohradar... The first rule of keeping safe in Ukraine is never share a taxi with people you don't know - but tonight the mistake was made for us; we missed the last trolleybus from Nivki metro, found a taxi instead, but two men climbed in after us. One was tall, in his late twenties, wearing a leather jacket and a black cap. He looked Central Asian, with narrow eyes and darker skin. The second was older, thin, unshaven, in a tracksuit and so overtaken by cheap vodka that he couldn't stop shivering. I crossed my arms in the middle seat, said nothing that would betray my accent, and scowled for the sake of it. We stopped at some traffic lights, opposite the metal fences with pro-Kuchma graffiti scrawled ... read more
Babushka and trolleybus.
'Don't look back in anger'.
Jared.

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv » Respublikanskii Stadion October 21st 2007

Last week I went with my new colleagues to watch my first game of football in Ukraine. A magazine later asked me to write an article about it, and I've included it below. My Article... Ukraine is not the greatest footballing nation in Europe; but no-one has told that to the people here. The game gets people talking and arguing, just as it does anywhere else. Fate has been very kind to me this month: not only is my new job in the centre of a fascinating, football-mad little city on the River Dnieper, but my office is only a two minute walk from the impressive Olympic stadium. Better still, there was a Champions League tie to look forward to the week after I arrived - Dynamo Kyiv vs. Sporting Lisbon, with third place and a ... read more
Dynamo Kyiv vs. Sporting Lisbon.
Bolelshchiki.
"Pride".

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv » Nivki October 12th 2007

Kyiv has been busy but peaceful in the time since I last wrote, and the still air each morning has become cold enough to pinch my lungs as I push open the heavy metal door and leave my building. The city is gradually beginning to feel like home, and there is even a positive side to my claustrophobic journey to work on the number 439 marshrutka: the girl next to me was listening to Zemfira as we bumped along on Tuesday, and not all the bosoms which I get thrown between belong to middle-aged women. Just as the time is approaching to think about finding a new flat I seem to be finally getting used to the old one. I am learning to pour the unused boiled water from the metal kettle into a large vase ... read more
Two of the founders of Kyiv - Princes Shchek and Horyv - in front of a poster advertising a mobile phone company.
View from my kitchen.
Support for Yuliya Tymoshchenko, leading up to the parliamentary elections.

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv » Nivki October 1st 2007

When I came back into the room she had a needle in her right arm, just a few inches above her wrist. Ana had woken up early this morning in awful pain, and phoned for a doctor when she couldn't bear it any more. I found her sitting against the edge of the bed, crying. I had only left to make the doctor a mug of tea in the kitchen, but the lady had already banged a nail into the bedroom wall, attached a long piece of string to it, and fashioned a drip out of a transparent packet of medicine inside a small green supermarket carrier bag. The blood had drained from Ana's face, her forehead was hot to touch and she couldn't move. After the first packet had run into her veins she still ... read more
Ana, up and about again.
Autumn street.
"Our" kitchen: Cinnamon, Salt, Tea.

Europe » Ukraine » Luganskaya Oblast » Popasnaya September 24th 2007

Ana never tells me her plans, especially when she moves from place to place. I suppose it's due to Ukraine's unpredictable nature, and people's unwillingness to 'count their chickens before they hatch'. While she was working in America last summer I got a message saying "Hi from Broadway!" when I thought she was in Philadelphia, and she appeared in Kyiv this autumn when I thought she had University coursework due in Lugansk. So when I learned that I had been offered this interview in Ukraine I was tempted not to let her know my own plans until I had arrived from London; "Surprise! Meet me on the balcony in Maidan Nezalezhnosti at 7!", my sms would have said... In the end I lost my nerve and told her five days before. It's just as well, as ... read more
Rush hour.
A speciality: fish, cognac and beer.
Lugansk.

Europe » Ukraine » Kyiv » Nivki September 20th 2007

Anyone arriving in Ukraine this evening with preconceptions about what being in Eastern Europe feels like would have had each of them confirmed during their drive to the centre alone. Low, dark grey clouds lashed rain onto the windscreen of my dilapidated taxi, its windscreen wipers creaked in time with the soft folk music playing on the radio, dirty blocks of flats flanked both sides of the motorway, and the only specks of colour to be found in the dismal outskirts of Kyiv came from hundreds of billboards, advertising everything from cigarettes to the upcoming elections. My driver was good value, as they always seem to be here. He gave me a cheerful rant about the congestion during the evening rush hour and the poor state of the countries' roads, and in spite of them both ... read more
View from my bedroom window.
Park im. Tarasa Shevchenko.
Statue, Maidan Nezalezhnosti.




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