A few comments on Varanasi in retrospect (don't believe Sue Perkins!) This higgledy piggledy city built behind the Ganges river front which is made up of temples, burning ghats, bathing ghats & palaces. No cars, and the nearer you get to the river, no motorbikes or scooters either. So you would think it would be quieter. Wrong. Befor sunrise each morning there is a cacaphony of noises from chanting, bells ringing, caged parrots squawking (near the Reedies room), doves cooing (outside my room) and monkeys fighting (never far off). The streets are not just full of people; there are cows, goats, dogs, buffalo, the occassional cat (with longer legs than in the west). We watched a dog gnawing on a rat yesterday, the kids were fascinated & horrified. At night the dogs bark almost constantly, you
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