We leave Jaipur with a slight sense of relief at quitting the city and are soon back in the dusty fields of rural India. David is ecstatic having learned at 2am that Everton had eliminated Chelsea in the 5thround of the FA Cup. For the first half of our journey we enjoy the luxury of a 4 lane highway where the flyovers through the villages have actually been completed. This boosts our average speed no end and is a welcome change from our previous trips. But, as Pramod reminds us, “In India no road rules local people very bad driving”. You cannot relax for a minute, three twenty ton trucks may be just around the corner bearing down on you on your side of the road because they cannot be bothered to go the long way ... read more

March 9 we leave Khimsar and head off for the short drive to Nagaur. A largely uneventful drive through the usual arid countryside. The occasional toll booth is manned here by Border Security Force. We are about 160 miles from Pakistan so security is noticeable especially as there is intelligence that ten terrorists crossed into Indai from Pakistan a few days ago.. From time to time policemen can be seen lolling around under umbrellas, guns propped against their chairs, alongside the road. We reach Nagaur and are amused to be at the front of the queue at a level crossing. The barrier is a red pole lowered by a long rope. However clearly it is considered merely advisory rather than mandatory to stay behind the barrier when it is down. Families, old women and all sorts ... read more

In 1459 the ruler of the Rathore clan of Rajputs, Rao Jodha, moved his capital to the site of Jodhpur today. He built his fort on the rocky promontory which dominates the surrounding area and so arose the Mehrangarh fort. Down below the old town was enclosed by a 10km long wall. This is the greatest fort of Rajasthan and one of the greatest in India. The unassailable position and the impossibly difficult position means the fort was never taken by force. You can drive so far towards the fort then must walk the rest of the way, then buy your ticket and wind up the steep and increasing narrow passageways through numerous defensive gates overlooked by the towering walls and bastions of the fort. Into the palace and there is room after room of treasures ... read more

Today we are scheduled to take the scenic ride on the narrow gauge local train down through the Aravalli hills to the little town of Phuulud. We wake early and go to breakfast to find that most of the Germans have already finished. We reckon they have spent not much more than 12 hours in the palace before going off to do the rest of Rajasthan. We decide to take the guide offered by the hotel for our train ride which turns out to be a good move. He is an engaging fellow who tells us his family has for generations served as barbers to the Royal family. These days he takes out the English visitors as needed. He takes us first to see the nearby lake next to the Rawat's current home near the hotel ... read more

We breakfast in the palace in a large open jharoka overlooking the fort below and the town beyond. The view is wonderful and the food excellent, but the over-attentiveness of the staff is irritating beyond belief. They have obviously been taught they should use the customer’s name and do so to ludicrous excess. ‘Can I pour you some coffee, Mr Thomas? Would you like milk in that, Mr Thomas? Is there anything else I can get you, Mr Thomas?’ Soon followed by ‘How has your day been, Mr Thomas?’ Well, it’s only 8.30am and I have spent the last half hour waiting for my porridge and fending off your solicitous attention.... We decide to forego a visit to Udaipur that we have seen it before. Too hot, too crowded, feeling lazy..... Instead, we go for a ... read more