Page 6 of Crannster Travel Blog Posts


Antarctica » Antarctica January 16th 2016

Back to Antarctica. Beyond this flood a frozen continent Lies dark and wilde, beat with perpetual storms Of whirlwind and dire hail, which on firm land Thaws not, but gathers heap, and ruin seems Of ancient pile; all else deep snow and ice... MILTON, Paradise Lost. It was the best of crossings it was the worst of crossings. The Drake Passage is a rite of passage for most people visiting the Antarctic and it is usually a bumpy, stormy passage. We got tossed around on one of the crossings as a Beaufort Force 9 slammed the sides of the vessel – truly spectacular waves hammering over the bow. However, our southbound voyage was a tranquil, peaceful passage with the company of the majestic fin whales and the mighty albatross. I love the sea. I love being ... read more
Crabeater Seal
Crabeater Seals
Danco Island Gentoos

North America » Greenland » East Greenland October 1st 2015

It was early winter when we returned to Greenland... Haunting reflections filled the freezing bays and fresh snow was all around. It really was a mystical trip, with mysterious light! The newly formed sea ice crunched and cracked beneath the rubber keel as the outboard chewed its way through the frozen fjord. Carnage from collapsed glaciers littered the surface, weird formations floated on the crunchy sea, and topsy-turvy icebergs hovered in silence. This was our monumental platform as we cruised in close proximity to massive chunks of ice in the giant fjords. Being this close to massive chunks of ice is incredible. It's a rush, it's exhilarating and exciting! I love being in the Zodiacs, cruising the fjords and dodging icebergs in the narrow channels. I love the thrill of going into unknown territory in a ... read more
The Calm before the Storm
Like a Mirror
Reflections

North America » Greenland » East Greenland September 18th 2015

“Swans of weird shape pecked at our planks, a gondola steered by a giraffe ran foul of us, which amused a duck sitting on a crocodile’s head... All the strange, fantastic shapes rose and fell in stately cadence with a rustling, whispering sound and hollow echoes to the seas.” Frank Worsley, Captain of ‘Endurance’ - describing icebergs Anywhere in Greenland is 'out of the way', however, on this voyage we got to some very rarely visited places even more out of the way - even by Greenlandic standards! About a hundred and fifty miles from the open ocean, the mighty Daugard-Jensen Glacier spills stadium-sized icebergs into the vanishing depths of Nordvestfjord, a twisty finger of sea, that ends abruptly at Ingmikortilaq (the land that looks like an island). Getting to this part of Scoresby Sund is ... read more
Dryas on Ella Island
Arctic Willow
Botanikerbugt

Europe » Iceland September 6th 2015

Reykjavík to Akureyrí... I’ve been on board the M/V Ocean Nova for a couple of weeks now, bouncing around in the North Atlantic on a Bahamian flagged vessel. We set sail from lovely Reykjavík, the Icelandic Capital for a semi circumnavigation of this fascinating island. Naturally, I was with an eclectic group of colleagues from far flung corners of the globe, all with a sense of adventure and the need to explore... Let’s go! There where many highlights during the Iceland voyage, but taking the Zodiacs around the rocky outcrop of Eldey was certainly one of the best! Tens of thousands of gannets soared overhead - a haunting and mesmerizing spectacle. Eldey is an island off the south western tip of Iceland and gets very few visitors, it is the last place on Earth where the ... read more
Reykjavik Sculpture
View from Reykjavik hotel
Amastapi

South America » Chile » Santiago Region » Santiago May 30th 2015

“I love you without knowing how, or when, or from where. I love you simply, without problems or pride: I love you in this way because I do not know any other way of loving but this, in which there is no I or you, so intimate that your hand upon my chest is my hand, so intimate that when I fall asleep your eyes close.”Pablo Neruda, 100 Love Sonnets. Pablo Neruda is adored by the Chileans. The Nobel Prize winning poet was a collector of beautiful things. His houses are full of furniture from all corners of the world and art from many cultures. Books and maps were some of his most treasured possessions and his houses were oddly designed and resembled the interiors of ships. His love of the sea was evident in his ... read more
Her Eyes
The Fish
The Bird

South America » Chile » Easter Island » Hanga Roa May 14th 2015

Iorana! (Rapa Nui for Hello) Off we flew to one of the most remote islands on the planet...Isla Pascua (Easter Island). And we were hosted by the lovely town of Hanga Roa. Far flung Easter Island sits about 3700 km from its Motherland in the middle of the Pacific Ocean - it is one of the most isolated inhabited places on Earth. They say that timing is everything. We arrived on the island at a very interesting time, indeed (politically!) The indigenous Rapa Nui people have kicked the Chilean National Park workers out of office and have taken over operations of the historical sites. (And presently, Chileans are not allowed at the sites.) Financially, it was great for us as we didn’t have to pay the USD 60 each for entrance fee to the island. Some ... read more
Ahu Tongariki
Rano Kau
Volcanic landscape of Rapa Nui (Easter Island)

South America » Chile » Arica & Parinacota » Arica May 8th 2015

From Lauca National Park in Chile’s northern extreme, we descended over four and a half thousand metres to the city of Arica at sea level. Pop went the ears and bang went the lungs! We went from the cold and icy, windswept and barren Andean Altiplano to the hot, expansive and treeless sand of the super-dry Atacama Desert in a couple of hours. We sported our super-hero capes as our oxygen levels increased and our extra red blood cells (that we had spent the last four weeks making at the high altitudes) cried: ‘hurray!’. Renting bikes in Arica and peddling up the hills was no large task for the two super-hero gringos! A little further down the Chilean coast, we stopped in the city of Iquique, also in the desert. There was a peaceful protest in ... read more
Arica
The Palm-lined Streets
Dead Seal


The view from our cabin on Isla del Sol was superb! The mighty Lake Titicaca (titi and caca in the same word – hee hee!), the snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera and incredible skies surrounded us. The surface of the lake is over 3800 metres above sea level and our cabin was a very challenging hike up another hill. Dave’s GPS showed our cabin just shy of 4000 metres! We spent most of our four day stay wandering around exploring the trails and beautiful landscapes of the traffic-free island. The island is dotted with Inca ruins and small villages. We loved the terraced gardens and we enjoyed the exquisite tranquility. Everywhere we looked there were burros (donkeys) and llamas. Sheep, cats and dogs were also a lesser part of the domesticated animal population and we may ... read more
Cha'lla
Yampupata
Inca Ruins

South America » Bolivia » La Paz Department » La Paz April 24th 2015

Hola Amigos... “Potosí! Potosí! Salimos a las una” the lady shouted... We hopped on board for a four hour bus ride to Potosí, the highest city in the world (allegedly) and a Unesco World Heritage Site. At 4070 metres above sea level, we huffed and puffed as we explored the lovely (and hilly) streets of this famous city. Little did we know that this city is not only famous for its elevation, but also its role in the history of the world‘s currency. The world’s first international coin was minted in silver here in Potosí. Our guide in The Casa Nacional de la Moneda gave us a very informative tour on the history of the mint and showed us some pretty remarkable pieces of wooden machinery from the 1700’s. The surrounding hills have one of the ... read more
Wooden Machinery
The Silver Smelt
Museo de Santa Teresa


We left the mountain town of Tupiza in a 4 x 4 Toyota Landcruiser with Felix (our driver and guide), Lydia (our cook) and a Belgian couple (Guillaume and Laura) and headed off into the remote and scenically spectacular south west corner of Bolivia. We spent the next four days driving to some of the country’s most amazing places, lakes of green, blue and red, volcanic rock formations and deserts, all with a giant backdrop of snow-capped peaks and colour-painted mountain ranges. We enjoyed watching vicuñas, llamas and sheep in the nearby scrublands. We were amazed to learn about and see the many flamingos that frequent the lakes to eat the algae in the cold temps of the season. The trip was incredible and the highlights were plentiful. Most of the trip was above 4000 metres ... read more
Tupiza
El Sillar
Rhea




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