Because reading novels is preferred over writing them we will keep it to bullet points. (and also because the power goes out every 15 minutes and erases our prose) Posted along the road to the Sham Trek: "Don't be risky and drink the whiskey" "Be Mr. Late, not Late Mr." "If you sleep, your family will weep." Riding along the highway to Likir we chuckled with white knuckles. The road, questionable at best, wrapped around the Ladakhi mountainside 1,000 feet above the Indus River. Bends surprised us with military transports and other stretches gave us a moment of reprieve. The Sham Trek: No white people. No tourists. Period. Don't dip your (used) toothbrush in Elizabeth's (clean) water bottle. "There are very few things on this trek that I can control, and a clean water bottle is
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