My trip began luckily, just before buying a bus ticket I learned of a friend traveling to Mpika (about 3/4 of the way to Mpulungu) on Monday morning. She, kindly, agreed to give me a ride and so for the first time I traveled without waking at some horrible hour of morning, no legs pressed against my legs, no shoulders invading my shoulders' territory, no babies being changed on my lap (actually happened the last time I went to Mpika) and instead rode in a spacious leather seat with air-conditioning comfortably (and free!) to the North. As we drove the season appeared to reverse itself into a North-American fall with the Miambo Woodland trees producing blood-stained pomegranate colored leaves which, with the progression of spring, turn slowly yellow and then green. In Mpika I booked a
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