We took a nauseatingly windy but utterly gorgeous bus ride up into the hills here, in Nuwara Eliya, a sort of Little England, in total tea country. Tea is grown in just about every patch of hill here, Ceylon being the former tea-capital of the world in the days of empire (I think India grows more tea now). Although it shows the world's disturbing obsession with tea, it is very, very pretty. You can see people picking tea, little kids and families scampering up and down the hills. It tends to look a little more organic than most large-scale crops, with a sort of patchwork of fields, since the landscape is pretty rugged here. Nuwara Eliya has little white English village-looking houses, a golf course, a race track, and some other curiosities. We spent a night
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