Page 2 of Aardvark travels Travel Blog Posts


Asia » Nepal April 7th 2018

ArchNamrung (2600m) – Sama (3520m) Sama, also known variously as Samagaon or Ryo is 900m above Namrung so we’ll in excess of the recommended daily maximum altitude gain of 300 – 400m. Consequently we need to take it pretty easy and keep an eye on each other for any signs of altitude sickness. Breakfast was a deviation from the norm as the Namrung Fourseasons (yes that really is the name, I presume the trademark attorneys are circling) didn’t have Tibetan bread but did have toast. So we variously had toast, boiled eggs and one omelette washed down with real espresso coffee (two for me!) which interesting was a change from our standard fare but probably not as well received as we had thought. Arch reported in sick and swallowed a couple of Imodium immediately after breakfast, ... read more

Asia » Nepal April 6th 2018

Day 11 Deng (1860m) – Namrung (2600m) Well today we’re off gaining altitude quite quickly as we head towards the Larke Pass on the Manaslu Circuit. Decided since it was a longish day we’d get up early and leave at or before 7.00 and have breakfast on the trail at a tea house later in the morning. Interestingly we have settled into a pretty consistent routine in the mornings, I’m generally first ready, followed closely by Arch and Gordie with Chris some time behind. Well this morning it got all buggered up and Chris was out of the blocks and down to the yard in front of the tea house not long after me with Gordie bringing up the rear. I’m not sure if this was the issue or perhaps just forgetfulness from a bunch of ... read more
Another swing bridge.

Asia » Nepal April 5th 2018

Day 10 Lokpa (2240m) – Deng (1860) Up really early but we were so excited about being able to talk to family got a bit late and didn’t leave until after 8.00. Chris’ birthday today but unlike the last time he had a birthday on a trek here we’re a long way from a cake shop so looking like he’ll have to settle for “Happy Birthdays” this morning and perhaps a beer and chocolate bar later in the day. The trek today takes us down to the entry to the Tsum Valley then back up the Manaslu Circuit proper. We departed planning on doing a long day but after about an hour after we started Himal and I were having a chat and he suggested we do a shorter day and stop at Deng. On reflection ... read more
The Nepalese “bridge to nowhere”
Some of the ponies are well decorated
Himal

Asia » Nepal April 4th 2018

Day 9 Lamagaon (3300m)– Lokpa (2240m) A long day that deserves a long blog! Up relatively early and Gordie feeling a fair bit better so decided to make it a big one and try to make up a bit of time. Not sure if we’ll get to Lokpa but thought we’d give it a go. Himal again carried Gordie’s pack so he’s optimistic about how it’ll go. Lots of ups and downs to start with. On the way down one hill came across an area of dead plants. Seems they were wild marijuana, which is prolific here, that Himal thought had been killed off by the local police. These were the only big plants we’ve seen but the sides of track are frequently full of very small plants. Been thinking it would be interesting to rub ... read more
The kids at Ripchet
The littlest I’d and only girl.
Concrete steps - not even on the main track??

Asia » Nepal April 3rd 2018

Day 8 Nyile (3360m) – Lamagaon (3300m) Well this morning brings more news on the health front. I awoke feeling a box of fluffies but unfortunately Gordie has if anything has worsened overnight. He awoke feeling sick and listless but bravely opted to carry on so we decided to have a short day down to Lamagaon. About a 2.5hr walk at a pretty leisurely pace to Lamagaon. Gordie obviously feeling like s..t but like a trooper keeps on plodding on. We arrive back at the tea house we visited for morning tea a few days ago and decided this would be good stopping off place. On checking out the rooms, the man proudly showed us how he had taken our suggestion of hooks to heart and installed hooks in the rooms. If there was ever doubt ... read more
The four of us!
Son of the key keeper for Milarepa’s cave
Key keepers daughter who accompanied us up to the cave.

Asia » Nepal April 2nd 2018

Day 7 Nyile (3360m) – Mu Gompa day trip (3700m) Up early for a 5.30 start to go up the valley to Mu Gompa. Mu Gompa is the highest permanently inhabited settlement in the Tsum Valley. It is about 100 years old and sits at about 3700m. I felt great until about half way up there then thing started to go wrong! After a short climb felt really dizzy and sore stomach. Fortunately McVet utilised his medical experience and made me sit down because next step in the process was fainting! Better to faint sitting than standing. After coming to an urgent toilet requirement the consistency of which confirmed all was not as it should be. So decided I’d return to Nyile and the other guys carry on. The walk back was difficult as all my ... read more
Arch and Chris at Mu Gompa
Mu Gompa
view from the nunnery above Mu Gompa

Asia » Nepal April 1st 2018

Day 6 Chhokang Paro (3033m) – Nyile (3361m) Easter Sunday and April fools day all rolled into one. Fortunately we remembered EastervSunday so started the day with Easter eggs and introduced the Nepalese guys to the Easter egg tradition. Not sure they quite knew what to make of it especially as we had them pretty much straight out of bed and we’ll before breakfast. Unfortunately we totally forgot April fools day so no practical jokes, although Gordie did and continues to entertain us with verbal jokes! Had decided to leave at about 8.00 and got away about on time heading towards Nyile. At one stage we were following an old Nepalese guy carrying, over his shoulder one of the single plows they use. He looked remarkably like Jesus carrying the cross, something I remarked to the ... read more
Lemon tea at Lamagaon
Heating kettle at Rachen Gompa
Young Nepalese lass - waiting for bus (not)

Asia » Nepal March 31st 2018

Day 5 Chumling – Chhokang Paro The day sort of started at about 4.00am when the village dogs decided to bark. Between them and some locals talking loudly that was pretty much the night done. The estimates of how long today would take varied from 3.5hrs to 6hrs so a bit of a mystery what lay ahead. Same old breakfast then left for Chhokang Paro. The track started off downhill to the river which gave us the chance to look back up to where the village is. It all sit pretty precariously alongside a sheer (in fact undercut) bluff 150m high. We’d walked along the top of this yesterday but seeing it from below gave you a real perspective of how high and sheer this really was. Relatively little of interest in the first part of ... read more
Tibetan inspired dining room
Passes for treking

Asia » Nepal March 30th 2018

Day 4 Chistopani – Chumling Another longish day ahead of us so decided to leave at 6.00am. Up and packed and left the village, a bit up and down but nothing too strenuous. Passed through the village of Ekle Bhatti, which means single house in Nepalese but is actually about four houses. About 45 minutes after Ekle Bhatti came to split in the path where the Manaslu Circuit and Tsum Valley go their separate ways. Given this is the entry to the mystical Tsum Valley it was a bit underwhelming, a simple sign pointing the two directions. We took the right turn and almost immediately the nature of the trail changed, steep up and equally steep downs with very little flat. We are gaining about 800m in altitude today but probably actually went up 5 hakas ... read more
Friday afternoon book club, Nepalese style
Panorama of the valley
All of us except Tom (porter) who took photo

Asia » Nepal March 29th 2018

Day 3 Jagat – Chisopani Started the day with the new standard breakfast, omelettes and Tibetan bread. I decided that with no chance of communication I’d borrow Himal’s phone and text Marie so she could let everyone know we were ok as the communication did stop abruptly when we got to Soti Khola. Himal and I spent quite some time trying to get his SIM working in various phones only to discover that the phone system was down and no signal. As we left Jaget there was a view down the valley and even at 8.00am the trail was full of trekkers, porters, locals heading of wherever and the ubiquitous pony caravans. We’re definitely not alone here. The air has cleared this morning and the views of the river valley and surrounding peaks are spectacular, this ... read more
Chris and Gordie
The longest swing bridge
Goats returning home in Chisopani




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