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Published: August 28th 2010
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S novymi outfity a o nejaky ten Dong lehci jsme se vydali na pruzkum stareho mesta v Hoi An, ktere bylo jako jedno z mala mist ve Vietnamu usetreno radeni obou indocinskych valek. Mesto je na seznamu UNESCO a staly priliv turistu prakticke Vietnamce odrazuje od nahazeni historickych domecku do reky a jejich nahrazeni betonovou zastavbou. To je na druhou stranu vykoupeno faktem, ze stare mesto pripomina jedno velke trziste, kde skoro vsechny domy jsou predelany na obchody se suvenyry a krejcovstvi. Clovek navic nemuze projit mestem, aby na kazdem kroku neslysel : "Ju baaj samsink!" I tak se Hoi An musi nechat, ze patri mezi nejhezci mesta, co jsme na teto ceste navstivili.
Nas posledni den v Hoi An jsme stravili prohlidkou nedalekeho arealu My Son, kteremu se nekdy rika vietnamsky Angkor Wat. Toto tvrzeni je podle nas pomerne hodne prehnane. My Son jsou ruiny byvaleho hlavniho mesta Chamske rise {Champa}. O Chamech jsme tu uz neco malo psali, tak jenom na doplneni.... Puvodem pochazeji z Javy a v dobe mezi 4. a 15. stoletim obyvali toto uzemi a stejne jako Khmerove uctivali hinduisticke bohy, v pripade Chamu pak hlavne Sivu. Pozdeji byli vytlaceni do delty Mekongu, kde prijali
Islam. My Son byl nanestesti rozborbardovan americany, protoze se domnivali, ze se zde schovavaji Viet Kongove. Nejruznejsi nadace ted financuji jeho obnovu.
Dalsi den jsme absolvovali kratky presun do byvaleho hlavniho mesta Vietnamu, kterym je Hue. Hue bylo take sidelnim mestem Nguyenskych lordu, kteri vladli v 19. stoleti a na svem zivotnim standardu rozhodne nesetrili a vystaveli vlastni verzi Zakazaneho mesta. Bohuzel i zde probihali behem americke valky tezke boje, takze velka cast citadely vzala za sve. Vietnamci se vsak nechteji sve historie jen tak vzdat a stavi cele casti komplexu od zacatku.
V okoli mesta se nachazi nekolik hrobek cisaru, ktere jsme se vydali prozkoumat na kole. Priserna vietnamska doprava nam zase jednou z projizdky po meste udelala adranalinovy zazitek, ale Hue nastesti neni tak velke, abychom se z nej po chvili nevymotali.
Nejvetsi z hrobek patri cisari Tu Ducovi, jehoz vlada byla take ze vsech Nguyenskych lordu nejdelsi, behem ktere se ale zeme postupne propadla do podruci Francie. Cisare spis nez vladnuti zajimala poezie a umeni {podle cehoz take cely areal vypada}, ale kvuli svoji povaze mel ve zvyku se vinit za vsechno spatne, co se jeho poddanym delo, i kdyz mu kupodivu nevadila otrocka
prace potrebna k vybudovani hrobky. Dokonce zasel az tak daleko, ze si dovolil zustat ve svem hrobe jenom po dobu 10 000 let. Co presne tim ale myslel, jsme nezjistili.
Nas posledni den v Hue jsme si zase jednou pujcili motorku a vydali se na projizdku po okoli. Cestou jsme se zastavili na plazi, kde jsme si dali k obedu grilovaneho kraba a chobotnici. Kraba vcelku jsme oba jedli poprve a jeho konzumace nam prisla jako docela naturalisticka zalezitost.
With new outfits we went to explore a historic town of Hoi An which was as one of a few places spared from raging of both Indochina wars. Because the town is on the list of UNESCO and in a focus of many tourists practical Vietnamese keep the old town as it would look centuries ago. Or that's what the official propagation materials say... In fact almost every building hosts either souvenir or tailor shop and it's nearly impossible to sneak throgh the town without constant hearing: You buy something! Even so, Hoi An is one of the prettiest towns which we have seen on our journey.
We spent our last day in Hoi An visiting
site of My Son which means Beautiful mountain. Some people claim this to be Vietnamese Angkor Wat, but in our opinion this is pretty exaggerated. My Son was a capital city of Champa Kingdom which used to occupy this area between 4th and 15th century. Chams were worshiping Hindu gods but later were forced to move to area of Mekong delta where they converted to Islam. Unfortunately, My Son was largerly demaged during the American war because Americans suspected Viet Kongs to be hidding there. All sorts of fundations are now involved in rebuilding the area.
The next day we made a short journey to Hoi An's sister town of Hue. Hue is former capital of Vietnamese Empire where used to be a royal court. There is a magnificent citadel with Vietnamese version of Forbidden City. Sadly, Hue saw some heavy fighting during the war and the city was almost completely devastated. Nontheless, Vietnamese are not giving up and with help of foreign experts are now rebuilding whole parts of the Royal City.
There are several emperors' tombs in surroundings of Hue which we went to explore on bicycle. The most beautiful is emperor Tu Duc's tomb. Tu
Duc's reign was the longest of all Nguyen lords but he wasn't very strong leader and during his lifetime Vietnam became French colony. We read that Tu Duc was more concerned about art and poetry than running the country, even so, he tend to blame himself for everything bad which was happening to his people {although he didn't mind slave labour which was needed to build his tomb}. He even permitted himself to stay in his grave for only 10 000 years. To be honest we didn't find out what exactly he meant by this.
Our last day in Hue we took a motorbike and went on a beach where we had a lunch consisting of grilled squid and crab. This was the first time for both of us to feast on whole crab and we found it a little naturalistic.
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