Annapurna Circuit Diary

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Day 1
Besisahar - Ngadi Distance- 13km Elevation- 890m

Up Early. Caught bus to Besisahar at 6.30am. Met kiwi Raj on bus who would then join us for the trek.
Sat on bus roof with Drew, he almost fell off over a bump. We both shit ourselves but eventualy found it funny.
Arrived in Besisahar and started the trek. Crossed our first bamboo bridge on the road to Khudi, need to get used to balancing on these!
Arrived in Bhulbhule, got permits stamped and started the real trail.

Day is bloody hot and sweating like a fountain, passed our first of many donkey trains. Scenery very tropical, not what I expected, no snow capped peaks yet. Stopped in Ngadi for a drink and ended staying the night. First taste of Dal Bhat (Lentil soup and rice),quiet like it. Rained heavily and lightening at night.

Day 2
Ngadi - Chamche Distance- 16km Elevation- 1385m (Gain- 495m)

Left Ngadi around 7.30 after quick brekky, trail wasn't to wet after rain. Made our way up to Bahurdanda (1310m) and had a short breather. Pushed onto Ghermu and stopped for tea. Spoke to english guy about AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), he gave us some tips and tips on the trek, turns out he tells this stuff to everyone and it's not that right!

Sun cam out with vengance and slowed us down, pased some nice waterfalls. Stopped in Jagart for lunch and met an english girl, Jo, who was dying for proper conversation. Decided to push to Chamche for the night. Got room for free with great view over canyon and waterfall. Rained again, thunder and lightening.

Day 3
Chamche - Danaqyu Distance- 16km Elevation- 2200m (Gain- 815m)

The sun barely came out the clouds today, got a glimpse of the snow capped peaks instead of them being shrouded in fluffy white curtains. Drew managed to get donkey shit in his shoe!?! Took advantage of the first of the Safe Drinking Water Stations in Tal, a prgram run by the ACAP and the NZ government. Passed a donkey on the trail witha suspected broken foot. It rained after luncg so got to test the new waterproof jacket, awesome! Planned to stop in Bagarchap but kept going to Danaqyu as walk was short. Free accom again and first hot shower!

Day 4
Danaqyu - Dhukur Pokari
Distance- 25km Elevation- 3240m (Gain- 1040m)

Big day of walking today, actually got to see some peaks too! Climb was nice and steady instead of big ups an downs. Foot started to hurt so checked it at lunch, massive blister on left heel, taped it right up. Started to rain again so jackets came out. As we got higher breathing got a bit harder but not to bad.

Had great scenery changes from forest to bare mountains with steep rock faces and back to forest again. The last stretch to Dhukur Pokari ran downhill so it was cruisey. Stayin in lodge run by crazy old tibetan lady, no shower at all and when we asked for extra blankets she just screamed "NO BLANKETS, NO, NO!"

Day 5
Dhukaur Pokari - Manang Distance- 21km Elevation- 3540m (Gain- 300m)

Got up just before 6 to go to toilet, got a magnificent view of Annapurna II, just stod ther and looked at it for ages until I could hold on no longer! Had to break out beanie and gloves! Passed a crystal clear lake that you could see straight through and showed no reflection. Took Upper Pisang High Pass reaching 3730m at Ghyaru. It was a steep zig zagging climb but the view from the top was stunning. Had Masala tea and cinnamon scroll then headed through very dry, desert like pine forest. Took side trip through a remote boarding school but there were only a few people around.

Stopped for lunch mid arvo in Mungji, tasted yak cheese and seabuckthorn juice- a sweet nectar type juice made with lots of sugar.
The man in the cafe was little crazy and it tok over 1 1/2hrs to get cold food, not worth complaining here because they just don't care. His little boy, maybe 4 years old, was running around with a razor blade on a stick. Just as we went to leave he came out yelling "1 minute, 1 minute" we waited and he produced a scrambled egg on a plate for Drew and Adam as he only used one between their to dishes, very strange.

The walk to Manang was very flat and easy from there, had we known it was so close we would have kept going earlier. Saw our first yaks. By the time we got to Manang most the accom was gone, got a place at the end of town, damn crazy lunch man! Really sunburnt even though I put lotion on all the time and blister is sore as hell. Feeling a bit deflated.

Adam came down with HAFE (High Altitude Flatulance Emissions)

Day 6
Rest day in Manang.

Saw a little yak try to jump a fence but got caught and fell flat on his back and couldn't get up for a bit.
Met Jo and walke d up to a gompa over loking Manang, Adams thong broke and he almost fell down a bank.
Yak steak for dinner, nice to have meat again!

Day 7
Manang - Letdar Distance 10km Elevation- 4200m (Gain 660m)

Had Tsampa porridge in our favourite little eatery, it's made from barley and tast a bit like weet-bix.
Really starting to notice how thin the air is. Rolled in to Letdar around lunch and relaxed for the arvo.
Ate what could have been rotten boiled potatoes for dinner but couldn't tel as ther was no power and they were coverd in chilli sauce, wil find out later a guess!

Day 8
Letdar - Thorang Phedi Distance- 5km Elevation- 4450m (Gain 250m)
Adam wasn't feeling well, has a cold. He went back to bed after brekky so Drew, Raj and I went uphill for a stroll. It was bloddy hard work and I could hardly breath, we think we got to around 4900m. Got some great views of the mountains and saw some wild deer.
When we got back down Adam was up so we had an early lunch and headed to Thorang Phedi.

When we arrived all the rooms had ben taken so we slept huddled together in the porters room. The flor is dirt and the rom very simple with shit beds, no pillows and hard mattresses. Had left sleeping bags in Pokhara on the advice of some people who had just finished the trek, wish we had them tonight! Starting to get a headache, hopefully not AMS. Met James from Apollo Bay, he is staying in the porter's room too.

Day 9
Thorang Phedi - Thorang La Pass - Muktinath Distance- 16km Elevation 5416m- 3800m (Gain 1034m - Loss 1384m)

Early rise. Set off at 4.30 for the pass after a 100m false start on my behalf, had to run to catch up to the others, couldn't breath at all then needed to go to the toilet for a poo really bad!!!!!!!!!!!! Followed the procession of LED headlamps up to high camp, passed many people feeling the effects of altitude on the way. As Adam was sick we set ourselves at his pace which was nice and slow so it made it easy for us, not him though. Stopped at high camp for a warm tea, sun came out.

Spent the next few hours slowly marching up the hill staring at the backs of boots and at the beautiful surrounding peaks of the Himalayas. Actually felt like I was finally there. Snow was all about us and the path cut through the snow and ice where it would normally be up to your waist. As we rounded a bend Tibetan prayer flags came into view and then the pass sign, couldn't help but smile like a kid on christmas. This was one of the most rewarding things I have ever done and the view was absolutley breath taking!
We all got our photos taken and had a look around at some beautiful lakes and I ate the best Mars Bar of my life!

We then headed on the massive down hill to Muktinath, when we arrived Adam went to bed as he was spent. Raj, Drew and I went for the first beers of the trek since we had passed the high altitude stage and got very drunk.

Day 10
Muktinath - Jomsom Distance 19km Elevation 2720 (Loss 1080m)

Probably the shitest day of walking today, Jeeps have appeared and we largely follow the road in the wake of their dust and fumes.
Had to cross flat sandy plains and got hammered by the wind and dust clouds. We passed a guy hiking in a brown suit and green shirt, very strange. Arrived in Jomsom just after midday, which was quicker than expected so we stopped in a little bakery for lunch were a little guy of about 4 with long dread locks was dancing and paradeing around, very cute. Walked pased Army school for Mountain Warfare, nothing going on there.

Found a hotel with the nicest bathroom and western toilet, no squatting tonight! To bad the food was a let down. Checke dout souveneir shops and had the worst freshly ground coffee ever. A guy in a trekking shop tried to buy my down vest off me and the caribiner on my camera strap, usually they are trying to sell you this stuff!

Day 11
Jomsom- Ghasa Distance 30km Elevation -2010 (Loss 710m)

Watched a few planes take off from the airport as we left town, you wouldn't want to make a mistake! Walked the through Marpha, the apple capital of Nepal. It had nice paved little streets with a canal running under it. We met up with James from Apollo Bay and bought a kg of apples for 20 rupees (30 cents) and 2 bottles of apple brandy.Tried to take a short cut acroos a flat but got stopped by the river so we had to back track a bit. As we dropped lower we got back into the tree line and got some much needed shade. We made it to Kalopani by lunch, this was to be our stop for the night, so we ate and kept going.

Adam went to take a short cut donw a steep bank after watching to Nepali guys run down it. He took two steps, slipped and slid. I laughed until I realised he wasn't stopping and there was a big drop at the end. He finally got purchase on the ground and came to a halt. The two Nepali guys below shit themselves as he would have taken them with him if he didn't stop. I walked around.

Arrived in Ghasa and cracked open a bottle of brandy, I got very drunk. Morning will be interesting.

Day 12
Ghasa - Tatopani Distance- 13km Elevation- 1200m (Loss- 810m)

Feeling so hungover. Lots of up and down steep stone steps. We ended up with a dog following us, I named him Bruce. Came across a heap of donkies that went mental and started running through a narrow path with rock walls on either side. Adam and I were presed hard against them but a donky barrelled straight into Adam, luckily it only hit his backpack but it hit hard all the same. One donkey went beserk and kicke the donkey behind square in the face! Stopped at a waterfal for morning tea and had apple crumble, starting to feel better. Caught up with James again. Arrived in Tatopani just before lunch and went straight to the hot springs, they were extermely hot so we decided to go back when they were in the shade.

Sat in the street chatting with James and another aussie, Adam from Sydney. Went back to hot springs for happy hour beer and pop corn. Saw fire flies in the evening then spent the whold night coughing.

Day13
Rest Day Tatopani

Sat and looked at mountain view from breakfast table and didn't move far all morning, looke din some shops for a bok but couldn't decide what to buy. After lunch Adam and I sat in the street opposite our hotel and drank beer watching the trekkers came in and wondering if any of the people we started with would roll by. Jo came in so we had a chat and more ber before going to the hot springs for happy hour again.

When we came back Drew through our room key to Adam but it landed on the roof, Adam jumped up to grab it but mised, slipped on the stair and fell flat on his arse, priceless. Quiet night.

Day 14
Tatopani - Ghorepani Distance- 17km Elevation- 2870 (Gain 1670m)

Passed a bus that couldn't get up a hill this morning, Adam and I stood and watched it until it did. Got separated from Raj and Drew. The tok the wrong road and headed to Beni. Adam and I took a high pass and stopped to think about what we should do, we decided to keep going as planned and that they would meet us eventually. We walked through a small village untouched by tourism which was very nice. When we got back to the main path we bumped into Raj and he filled us in on the wrong path they took.

After an intense we walk we stopped for lunch, I was pretty much knackered and was thinking maybe the rest day did more bad than god. We resumed the walk and it was a hard slog up many stone steps. We passed through a nice wood with really old twisted trees, it looked like a place that you might find Buddha deep in thought. The fianl leg to Ghorepani was short but extremely steep and the stairs got massive. My legs would almost not move and I felt like a I had bricks on my feet. Finally the town was surrounding me and we found a lodge that looked like it was stuck together with tape. Hopefully I will sleep wel tonight, but the walls are thin ply.

Day 15
Ghorepani - Nayapul Distance- 11km Elevation- 1070m (Loss- 1800m)

Didn't sleep well at all. Woken at 4 by trekkers getting ready for Poon Hill. The whole building shook as the thumped about and talked and laughed loudly. We started the walk to Poon Hill for sun rise at 5. You enterd via a turn style and it felt like you were at Disneyland, very touristy and slightly cheesey. The wals was like a queue at Medicare, slow and full of old people. Arrived at the top (3200m) and walked through a big arch saying "Welcome to Poon Hill", now I definently feel like I'm at Disneyland. The view was great but very cloudy so most the peaks were hidden and sunrise was very unspectacular, as it was very light before the sun came over this crappy little hill. I guess we had come to expect to much from the great views we experienced earlier in the week.

We left before the crowd and headed of on the last leg on the trek. We had to navigate our way down 3000 stone steps in the heat, whcich wasn't that much fun for the knee and ankle joints. After a couple of breaks we made it to Birethanti and went throught he last ACAP check point, the trek was over! We then took the short walk to Nayapul and caugt a taxi back to Pokhara, it was a very interesting ride. The taxi was bottoming out as it was a tiny hatch back and the driver was mad around corners and thorough tight gaps. We thought he was even going to take na old lady out.

That night we got insanely drunk and ended up walking along our street arm in arm giggling like scholl girls, the locals looked on and laughed at us. We laughed even more!

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