Day 28: Navigating through Hai Van Pass

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Geo: 15.875, 108.336

OK, have to admit, the hours just disappeared under the wheels of the van which was carefully navigated by Mr Song our driver. At one stage I thought that either Mac or Richard was going to tell him to get the lead out. We literally crawled up the incredible Hai Van Pass. But it was appreciated because we had no motion sickness from any traveller and we got to see all the sights.

The first four hours were a back track to Hue and after the relative quiet of the Ho Chi Minh Trail and Highway 51 we did join the madness of Highway 1. And as predicted we managed to catch a few traffic snarls and took on lorries and buses and road work equipment head on

Actually were able to pick out some of the highlights from the journey a few days before but had to whisper our questions amongst ourselves so we could vet them for repetition. Didn't want to be reminded that the facts were going in one ear and out of the other.

Rest stops were strictly rationed today. Made the first stop after 4 hours at a petrol station and glad they had the fuel we needed for the vehicle because the toilet facilities were filthy. But beggars....with bursting bladders....can't be choosers. Just had to squat and go. Not even a tap in the toilets had to go out to the petrol pump and find some running water. And the promised coke and coffee were nowhere in sight.

Did make one more stop along the estuary at an oyster farm and of course dashed inside to see if the elusive pearl was available but of course no luck. Had to settle for eating them instead. So perched at a table with a view, devoured our first shelled oysters of the trip. Ordered them BBQ'd and they disappeared faster than you could say "golden tear drop." They were delicious. Mac added a fresh coconut to his selection and had to pick it up with both hands to enjoy the cold treat. Was only a quick stop though and we were soon heading uphill and through the tunnels towards the pass.

Hai Van (Sea Cloud) Pass crosses over a spur of the Truong Son mountain range that juts into the sea about 30km north of the beachside Danang. The Highway 1 pass is the alternate to the last tunnel. It is a weaving and twisting series of switchback roads that carries all the vehicles which are "oversized" for the tunnels and the dozens of motor bike explorers who are on the Easy Rider tour (no motorbikes in the 6km tunnel either.)

It was an incredibly mountainous stretch of highway and from the lookout we could see the railway track, with its many tunnels, making its way around the peninsula. The summit (the only place you can stop) was covered with the remnants of the bullet scarred French fort and Loraine and Huan found a number of old bullet casings on the track to the top.

On a clear day you could no doubt see forever. But on this day, with the shroud of smog, the distant Danang was just showing as a hint of white on the horizon. As we approached closer on the ascent, it did have a remarkably familiar look to it - with the blue of the ocean and the white of the highrise it resembled Surfer's Paradise.

Think the ride down this side of the mountain only took 20 minutes - it was so quick compared with the up hill climb. And the views continued to impress. Expansive vista of the the East Vietnam Sea (Vietnam is an independent country so no longer referred to as the East China Sea), drove by Danang Beach (no longer China Beach....ditto) and watched the gentle waves roll onto almost white beaches.

Had a last stop for the trip at Marble Mountain to look at the statues and carvings. Was really just a disguise to use the toilets. But we did have a wander around. Richard took up the sandpaper and help polish one of the pieces. We all did a bit of dreaming in terms of possible purchases. At some stage the group became a little fragmented between the grounds, the toilet, the display driveway and the gift shop. After 8 hours and 45 minutes of driving, Huan was NOT HAPPY JAN and wanted to know why we didn't all stayed together. He needs to learn the "sticky rice" call of our food tour guide! Maybe I'll tell him tomorrow!

There was so much to see on this final part of the trip as we made our way through the very western and very modern Danang. Beautiful beaches, sand, villas, huts and umbrellas, a quiet slow pace to the traffic, volleyball courts, para gliders, speedboats and even the yellow and red surf lifesavers. And to think, as the crow flies, Danang is only 50 kms east of the Vietnam and Laos border.

But it was a little depressing. Miles of the beach had been fenced off to create private beaches for existing and proposed resorts. The local people who had built on beach front, now found themselves cut off as the government has sold off the sandy stretches to Koreans, Japanese ..... anyone actually, who has money. Kerry Packer was represented by the Crowne and the Crown Casino. Not sure how it works, but the locals are not permitted into the Casibo - you need to gave a visa.

Did pass lots of defence bases today. Army and navy forces were strong and there was a stream of army vehicles in Danang. Apparently, the defence force currently stands at 1.8 million with every male age of 18 and 27 serving a compulsory 18 months in service. Definite a nation prepared to defend its coastline. Think they have been schooled by history,

Do think that the trip would have made best time lapse video ever. We were in constant motion, moving from cheek to cheek, swapping between seats and going from upright to prone. Everyone grabbed a few zzzzs on the journey - think Loraine was awake most of the time and definitely know that Richard had more than a catnap stretched out in the backseat!

Arrived in the late afternoon to a very welcoming Anantara Resort and threw the bags in the rooms and headed out the gates of the resort. As soon a we put our foot on the pavement the laundry ladies were heading our way. Not sure if we were on the nose or were just comfortably dishevelled after 9 hours on the road but laundry number 1 and laundry number 4 ladies were busy speaking over us to get our business. And four steps on and the massage and spa teams were out with cards and pamphlets. A few more shops and we located the merchant we wanted - the shop with the "bar supplies." We twisted the bottles, read the labels and made the selections. Only one problem! In our haste to hit the streets, not one of us had money! Had to retrace our steps and run the gauntlet of the massages and laundry to regroup.

After that foray, decided we would "eat in" and set ourselves up on the banks of the river (in the dark" and tried our first Vietnamese Hotpot. Got two - a seafood and a meat - and slurped, chewed and cracked our way through too much food again. With a bit more light think it would have been a real treat rather than a blind man's bluff treasure hunt. We did gain some real insights from Twee who prepared the hotspot for us and do think that a pork bun from her husband's street food van will be an option tomorrow.

Have to acknowledge the bravery of Richard here. He did cash up and dashed out to get some beverages for the Venturers. And yes, the ladies greeted him at the gate with "Remember me, best washing. Laundry Lady Number 1.

Huan is sending us to work tomorrow. We have to go to the farm and tend the fields and then cook our lunch. Might be eating lighter tomorrow.

Steps: 7 582
Temperature: 32 degrees

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Comments

[Aunty Gail]

Looks like Anantara will be the perfect stopover for the next 4 days......Wow! just beautiful....again, the yummy food, but as you say, 'why not'!!!!!...xxxx