The Mekong Delta and Cu Chi tunnels

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2 hours north of the city we visited the Cu Chi tunnels, a network of underground hid outs used by Viet Cong soldiers and supporting local villagers during the American war. Interestingly we learned that the site was chosen specifically because of its geographic qualities; the earth perfect for digging but not collapsing, close enough to the water table to access water but high enough to not flood and also close to the river for emergency escape and refuge in Cambodia. The site shows the original tunnels, tiny hidden camouflaged entrances, some original above ground camps and below ground kitchens, hospitals etc but also has been nicely modified to include some tourist friendly demo (but accurate) boobie traps, raised ceilings in huts and an AK47 shooting range (a sadistic touch we thought given the very real and serious subject matter). 20 metres crawling down one black tunnel was enough for me to freak out and exit half way, Math would have continued I think but was preoccupied with my panic attack. Thousands of people lived down the tunnels often for weeks on end with just a few air holes dotted about. Cooking was tricky we learned with smoke having to be diverted and disease was rife meaning that thousands died in the tunnels let alone the ground above. My shambolic 20 metres a real eye opener.

From Saigon we also took a day trip to the Mekong delta visiting the provinces of Cai Be and Vinh Long. Having seen the Mekong at various other points in our travels it was interesting to see its final destination before the ocean. Starting in China then travelling through Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and now Vietnam the river is vast in size and content. Like a thick soup - we wondered what river monsters lived here. In Cai Be we took a boat to discover the daily life of the local people stopping first at a floating market boat then later on the banks to some other local trades. Being an affluent fruit growing region we stopped by a bee keeping cafe and tried some local honey tea. Then, at another cafe and shop we tried snake wine - for men only...pfsst! bitter and potent i can tell you. We went on to watch puffed rice (snap, crackle and pop) being made, which is a sweet treat here. We also saw the full process for making coconut candy, delicious with all its variants to choose from... peanut, mint, chocolate and coffee. Plus, the art of rice paper making. We tried some of everything on offer and it was nice to understand some of the local produce. Lunch was served in a beautiful restaurant surrounded by we'll tended gardens and was a real treat. We ate Mekong catfish and elephant ear fish along with a pork stew, rice, morning glory and fruit for desert. An hours boat ride to Vinh Long passed by mangroves and some very rustic river houses with stilts in the water and many many house boats too. The market here is definitely the most rural we've seen with the usual fruit, veg and meat plus various other items which made us do a double take - not a market for tourists! Snakes, turtles, fish alive but barely in water but most fascinating and unexpected was the skinned toads - still croaking.

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