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Published: December 27th 2015
The drive from Hue to Hoi An was beautifully scenic. The clouds that shrouded the lower valley near a serene lagoon were mystical and I felt a spiritual presence. The point where the Ocean meets the river was spectacular and I wished we could have spent more time there. Reaching the top of Hai Van mountain pass Danang came into view or should I say came in and out of view as the low lying clouds blanketed the valley below. A bunker from the war is located in this pass and a bride and groom were there posing for wedding photos which are taken a few weeks in advance so they can run a video show at the reception.
Danang - -We only stopped for a quick visit to the Cham Museum to take in some relics of the ancient Cham Pa civilization. Had a quick lunch and went on to visit Marble Mountain. My goodness, there are so many marble sculptors, making so many very large statures of Buddha and Shiva it’s hard to imagine they could ever sell even a small portion of them. Danang Dragon Bridge is a sight to behold.
The ancient town of Hoi
An is much slower paced, a welcome respite! There are at least 1500 tailors in town all ready to make you custom clothing overnight, or sooner if you need.
My hotel is a Pacific Ocean beachfront property a located outside of town. I explore the old Hoi An which is pedestrian only and visit Chinese community center, old covered Japanese bridge, and other historical monuments. The streets are lined with souvenir shops, restaurants, and massage spas.
My Son Sanctuary – a UNESCO World Heritage Site - Between the 4th and 13th centuries a unique culture which owed its spiritual origins to Indian Hinduism developed on the coast of contemporary Viet Nam. This is graphically illustrated by the remains of a series of impressive tower-temples located in a dramatic site that was the religious and political capital of the Champa Kingdom for most of its existence.
One morning I join an American family, Lena, Jay, and their three daughters for a tour of the countryside. We start off on our bikes and ride along the paths between the fields. First stop is the water buffalo ride. What I sight I was on that sweet huge beast! Lucky for
me we did not go in the water, however, the others did and each got a little wet. Bea, the buffalo, loved to swat us with her tail on our behinds as she lumbered along. Meandering along, we move past a duck farm and wind our way to the wonderful organic gardens. Missy, who is 71, works in the fields every day, tending to the weeding, thinning of the plants, and watering the crop by hand twice daily. She showed us how she uses seaweed for fertilizer and each of took a turn at watering Vietnamese style, two very large watering cans balanced on a long stick, dipped into a water trough and using rhythmic motion sprinkling the maturing crop of lettuce. We picked some veggies for our lunch.
Next stop was to board a boat where we were taken to see the fisherman who throw nets to gather the fish. He threw the nets and each of us had a chance to bring up the catch. The fish were small, but this is the middle of the day and the time for fishing is early morning and just before sunset. We see where the Viet Cong fought in
waist high water overtaken with coconut trees. Our crew put on a great dance show (gangnam style) in the round boats made from palm leaves, tar and buffalo dung. We had the opportunity to ride and paddle the boats. We are treated to a fantastic lunch prepared by Captain Cook and his crew as we linger on the river taking in the rural lifestyle.
On the full moon of each lunar month the Hoi An residents turn the town into a magical sight by floating little paper boats with candles on the river. The boats sell for less than a dollar (I’m not good at haggling) and the release is made easy using special long poles you can put over the bridge or on the river’s edge. You make a wish and send your small craft off on the current. It is mesmerizing.
The night market in Hoi An is a sight of brightly colored lanterns, all shapes, sizes, plain and patterned that cast a spell on the on-lookers. The street is crowded with vendors and little games such as “Smash the Clay Pot”. The sky is full of lighted, flying twirling toys and Spiderman neon
toys populate the sidewalk. This is a night I will remember for a long time.
A visit to the “market” is a must. You can buy any kind of meat or fish you can think of and it is all “fresh” and when I say fresh I mean most of it is still alive! Fruits and vegetables that I cannot identify are everywhere and are fragrant and bright in color. I could not count the different kinds of noodles, most freshly made and sold by the bag. The interior market offers many stalls with spices, coffee, tea, dried beans, and cooking tools. They sure can make beautiful garnishes with those tools.
I had my first face threading experience. Not as painful as waxing and my "new friend" wanted to remove hair from other body parts, but I knew where to draw the line. I also had a wonderful foot and leg massage in Old Hoi An.
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