Woah Chi Minh it's Toasty

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With a heavy heart and some heavier teapots (Nic!) we joined the slow and long plod south again on The Reunification Express (Express seems a little grand, but we'll let them away with it). Passing out of the realms of the North and down to the Perfume River and central coast citadel of Hue - the ancient capital of Vietnam.

Hue (pronounced Hwhay ish) was unfortunate enough to be at the center of many American offensives during their war with the local populace and is only now slowly recovering. While the central citadel that makes up most of the North bank of the town is now more commonly used for farming and signs explaining that a really pretty temple used to be here, honest. There are still plenty of things to bring the tourists in, well one or two, but the best still remains the forbidden city that was once the heart of the old citadel. This impressively pretty castle complex is still pretty much intact, either that or the Vietnamese repair men are some of the best we've ever seen and the endless sprawl of courthouses, dance halls and libraries seem to stretch for miles - although it could be the heat.

And in there lies the two major problems with Hue. Firstly, all these buildings although designed with a separate purpose do look pretty similar and when faced with hundreds of them it does get quite difficult to maintain ones level of enthusiasm. Help is on hand of course through armed guards at every turn who ensure that tourists look enthusiastic and happy at all times! Secondly, is the heat. It's hot, damn hot. So hot you could cook ... (em plagiarism isn't big or clever - sorry).

There isn't really any way to describe this level of heat to those who haven't felt it. Being stuck out in almost 40 degree temperatures at 9 am is like water torture to a Scotsman. Obviously actual water torture would be wholly ineffectual - with our level of rain that's a nice day. Actually there is a way, next time you make a cake leave the oven open. After 20 minutes throw a bucket of water over yourself and you might start to get close and please remember this is 9 am think what it's like at midday - only the English would be that stupid.

So with that in mind we did what any sane person would do and hired bikes ...

There is actually some method to this madness. First, you get where you're going much quicker. Second, you get a lovely breeze and third you get to wear one of those cool conical hats and not feel stupid (Actually every westerner without exception looks stupid in those hats - especially us).

Our next stop on the Ho Chi Minh Trail ... follow the Ho Chi Minh Trail oh eh oh (stop copying that film!) took us through the DMZ (De-militarised zone) of the American war and passed the city of Danang that saw some of the worst devastation. When you see such beautiful jungle landscape dotted with rice paddies turn into white scorched earth that still hasn't healed, the history of the place seems to smack you in the face - although that could be the heat again. It is remarkable though that people have gotten on with their lives without hate or vengeance when they are still, in some ways, living with the conflict. Danang me, Danang me oh won't you get a rope and hang me (look stop it - it isn't funny anymore)

We pushed passed Danang, however, and made it to the quaint seaside town and World Heritage Site (those words have lost all meaning to us we hear them so often) of Hoi An. A place famous for its unique food and over 200 tailors shops - now if I can only persuade Nic to shop.

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