After a blissful 6 hours on a gently swaying soft bed we were woken to the conductor singing "coffee, tea, morning coffee, tea" shortly before we pulled into Lao Cai at 6.00am. We were then bundled into a minivan for the 45 minute trip from Lao Cai to Sapa, which is all uphill. Sapa has a slightly faded alpine feel to it, and the temperature is around 15 degrees cooler than anywhere else in Vietnam which makes it very pleasant indeed. In Sapa we were shown to our hotel, Hotel Auberge, given breakfast and had a shower before setting off with an elderly German couple and our Black Hong guide, Yioaw. I have no idea if that's how it's spelt but that's how it sounds, I know because I originally thought it was Miaow which had
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