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Asia » Vietnam » Northwest » Lao Cai » Sapa August 2nd 2016

Our guide from yesterday, I now know that her name is spelt Dao but pronounced Yioau, met us just before 9.00am and we were joined by a young couple from Holland, 4 Italians and the 2 older Germans from yesterday. Today was a 12km hike along roads and through rice fields with a lot of ups and downs. It was, mercifully, a beautiful sunny day or the trails would have been deadly. The views were absolutely breathtaking, like something out of one of the advertising brochures, with terraced rice fields rising hundreds of metres up the sides of steep mountains. It beggars the mind to think of the local people rising at 4 or 4.30am then traipsing for 3 or 4 kilometres, pretty much all of it uphill, to put in a hard days graft in ... read more
Sapa from hotel
Lao Chai valley
Rice terraces

Asia » Vietnam » Northwest » Lao Cai August 1st 2016

After a blissful 6 hours on a gently swaying soft bed we were woken to the conductor singing "coffee, tea, morning coffee, tea" shortly before we pulled into Lao Cai at 6.00am. We were then bundled into a minivan for the 45 minute trip from Lao Cai to Sapa, which is all uphill. Sapa has a slightly faded alpine feel to it, and the temperature is around 15 degrees cooler than anywhere else in Vietnam which makes it very pleasant indeed. In Sapa we were shown to our hotel, Hotel Auberge, given breakfast and had a shower before setting off with an elderly German couple and our Black Hong guide, Yioaw. I have no idea if that's how it's spelt but that's how it sounds, I know because I originally thought it was Miaow which had ... read more
Water buffalo bathing
View from hotel balcony
Local brew

Asia » Vietnam » Northwest » Lao Cai » Sapa June 14th 2016

Our night bus was due to pick us up at our hotel 9.30 pm. We expected that it might be closer to 10 pm. as we were living quite close to the station so might be the last pick up. At 9.30pm a guy on a motorbike came and directed us to wait on the side of the road around the corner from our hotel. 10 pm came and still no bus. Now we were getting concerned. It was meant to leave Hanoi 10 pm. About 10.20 I took a risk missing the bus and dashed back across the busy road to our hotel. The lovely Max in reception was surprised to see that we hadn't yet gone. I gave him a phone number and raced back to Tomas in the side of the street. A ... read more
Looking towards Sapa
I couldn't look past the rubbish any more so I started looking at it.
The Lake in the Town of Sapa

Asia » Vietnam » Northwest March 5th 2016

We were prisoners in our room. We couldn’t unlock the door. There was no phone in the room to call for help. The system here is upon entering the room, you put the key tag in a slot above the light switch. This turns on the electricity. When you remove the tag, it cuts the current, so we were struggling with the lock in the dark. I remembered that I had a crank generated flashlight in my pack. It did not work like a magic wand to open the door but at least we could see what we were dealing with. It finally released and we went back across the street for breakfast. More of the same soup and vegetables. Back on the road again for another long drive. We were supposed to go check out ... read more
Switchbacks
Mountains 2
Mountains 3

Asia » Vietnam » Northwest March 4th 2016

Our local guide came by while we were having breakfast with a few clarifications about our itinerary. He asked what we had paid. It seems that La Beauty de Hanoi makes a good commission. Today we have a 12 kilometre trek ahead of us, down into the valley to a couple of Black Hmung villages. We sleep in a “homestay”. I am not quite sure what this is as I have read that it illegal for locals to have foreigners sleep in there homes. The trek was 95% downhill. Some places we had to catwalk down an especially deep step. Other times it was skipping over rocks. This entailed a delicate dance and the quick decision of what foot should go forward first and plan a few steps ahead. Other times it was a leisurely walk ... read more
Claudette's Personal Assistant
Preparing Hemp Thread
Hand Spinning

Asia » Vietnam » Northwest March 3rd 2016

We got up early and separated our luggage so as not to haul all of it around for the next 5 days. Although we had time to eat breakfast, the hotel prepared a boxed one for us anyways. We were first picked up by a 15 seated and driven a few blocks. A bigger bus would never fit in this lane. Since we were the last to sign up, we had the back row seats. A light snack was served while we made our way through the building rush hour traffic. It was clear sailing along the auto route for the next several hours. I noticed that a few other passengers had internet access. Imagine, I had to travel half way around the world to experience this technological wonder. The driver made two rest breaks at ... read more
Cat Cat Village
Love Waterfall
Bamboo Irrigation Wheels

Asia » Vietnam » Northwest February 24th 2016

I don't know why I bought them. The two guys with baskets of metal objects on the site of Khe Sanh hounded me from the moment I set foot in the area. They had coins and medals and bullet casings and fragments of war. One had a 1976 penny. Obviously, he had picked it up from somewhere else, not here, on the flat open area where Americans and Vietnamese fought a prolonged battle in 1968. Khe Sanh. The name of the site barely scratched my memory. I was 14 years old, in a world and mindset away from the war happening in this distant land. I remember the TV news people talking about the Tet offensive, but I was so young and unaware. Something about the Vietnamese new year starting. But back then, their holiday signaled ... read more
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Asia » Vietnam » Northwest » Lao Cai » Sapa February 3rd 2016

Today once again you couldn't see a thing outside the window, but as breakfast finished at 9am we had to be ready earlyish. it looked like things were running out when we got downstairs, in our coats, as you can see your breath everywhere inside the hotel. The staff wear their coats all the time too. But apart from the overlooked eggs and dodgy fried rice, it was good. A buffet (always a winner) with the best bread so far and a choice of tea. Pancakes too. We ate for a long time. Back to the room and back into be fully clothed, with the electric blanket on, stayed there until 11. Looking outside, I had a crisis of confidence about walking downhill to the village (1.3km it said, but steep) to a few souvenir stands ... read more
Veggie patch
Catcat village didn't look too inviting in the gloom
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Asia » Vietnam » Northwest » Lao Cai » Sapa February 2nd 2016

After our initial this-is-ok with the room and getting into bed in all our clothes waiting for the electric blanket and heater to kick in, we noticed a big big draught from the window. It didn't seem to close, and looking harder there was a 2cm gap at the top where you could see straight through to the 4 degrees outside. Closing the curtain didn't help. After shivering for an hour I went downstairs to see if they could move us. Sadly, booking.com said there was only a quad or a dorm bed for tonight. Didn't fancy it. The guy on the desk said immediately 'Window not close?'. He came up, fiddled with the wire on the handle, closed the curtain and started to leave. Nonono! He said bed warm, heater, is OK. Not OK! So ... read more
Looking through the bins for recycling
Our stalker
Meat smoking? Drying? next to the fire

Asia » Vietnam » Northwest » Lao Cai » Sapa February 2nd 2016

We had a transfer to the train station included in our ticket and it consisted of the boy from the hotel hailing a taxi for us, coming with us to the station and escorting us to our carriage. They had already got our boarding passes. Livitrans was the least plush looking of the private carriages, but the compartment was quite cute, free bottles of water, wipes and biscuits, adequate toilet next door. As we left, no one came into our carriage, and our bunks were on the bottom. We froze and stared at the door every time the handle rattled but had it to ourselves. Result! No ladder up to the top. Just a little step which looked like it was for stubbing cigarettes out on. How much fun would that have been in the middle ... read more
Sleeper compartment, water, wipes and biscuits provided. Very clean.
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Top bunk mattress blocking the freezing aircon




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