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Asia » Vietnam » Northwest » Lao Cai » Sapa
May 8th 2006
Published: May 10th 2006
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Pen & Her VillagePen & Her VillagePen & Her Village

Pen with new baby, "chin". (spelling the names how they sound)
There is one thing I have to do while in Sapa. I have to find Pen. Pen is one of the hill tribe people living in a village outside of Sapa, and a friend of Karen’s. The only clues for finding her are a photograph and this letter:

Dear Sherry,

As soon as you get to Sapa find someone dressed the same as Pen. They will know her and send word for her to come into town to see you. She has 3 sons now including a new little baby boy. Her village is 5-7 kms from town. If you go out there take your own water and eat first. Pen speaks English and is gorgeous...Don’t try to get police permission to visit her village, it will take too long. Just plead ignorant if you are asked where you are going. I am happy to buy Pen some animals, please ask her what would be good, chickens or pigs?

Love,

Karen




I love my Secret-Sapa mission. And it doesn’t take long to find a villager in town who knows Pen. They send word for her to meet me the next morning at 8am.
Incredible Hulk?Incredible Hulk?Incredible Hulk?

No, just a local villager. The women's hands are stained the color of the natural dye they use in their textiles, mostly blue and green.

Now just a word of advise, if you find yourself in Sapa, and Pen asks you to come over to visit, not only should you bring your own water and eat first, but you better bring a healthy dose of endurance. The journey takes more than 3 hours, one way. It is 5-7kms to her village, but then you have to walk down to the bottom of the mountain, and then make your way up to the top of another. It’s damn hot but I’m not complaining, because I am very aware that Pen not only wears her village attire composed of multiple heavy layers, but she also has a baby on her back.

Being here with Pen affirms my belief that not having money does not mean not having happiness, and if you met Joe in a previous blog, vice versa. I spend the afternoon enjoying Pen's children and the local life of a villager. This life is simple and beautiful. Pen speaks decent English and tells me stories like how her husband paid her family 2 million VND (app $125) to marry her. I also get an up close and personal tour of the rice terraces. Lunch
Hiding behind MomHiding behind MomHiding behind Mom

Pen's oldest, "Van" is only shy at first...
was cooked over a fire in a pit in the kitchen which would complete my visit and what I thought were mushrooms I was stirring in with my rice, were not mushrooms at all, but pig’s feet. The room was dark, oh well.






Additional photos below
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Watch RepairmanWatch Repairman
Watch Repairman

My mom would love this one. Using a large knife to pop off the face of a watch he found (!)
Bundle of joy...Bundle of joy...
Bundle of joy...

All unbundled from mom's back.
Hanging OutHanging Out
Hanging Out

Pen's middle child, "Shuh"


10th May 2006

Don't say I didn't warn you!
Dear Sherry, Sapa is like no other place in the world. I am so glad that you made the trek out to Pens village it's a unique way of life isn't it?. You are so right Pen is really happy with her life which makes her all the more special to me.Thankyou for the photos of her little family, they mean a lot as I don't get to see her every trip. Did you end up buying her pigs or chickens from me?? Just curious...........Take Care Love and a Hug from Karen.
10th May 2006

Sapa
It sounds like you are in a Joseph Conrad novel. Sapa is so beautiful, and I love how most of the villagers are tinted with indigo. Good luck finding Kurtz. Cheers.
11th May 2006

Massage??
Hi Sherry! Sounds like you need me in a bottle now to give you a massage after your long hot trek in Sapa! Wish I was there! We are trying to settle back into mundane life but it is really hard especially with the weather about 30degrees colder than in Hoian! Will keep in touch. I have a great photo of you and Lua which I will send onto you! Safe travels! Peta
23rd May 2006

Pen
Robyn and i walked to the start of Pens village looking for her when we found her it was to late in the day to visit so next time we will have to venture in Sapa to me is a magical place and im so happy Karen sent you there another blog to boost my day pictures make all the difference to an email thanks again Marelyn

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