It took me awhile to decide what to do about Halong Bay, since I was half-dreading even approaching a tour agency about embarking on the spectacle. I'd heard some horror stories from other travelers, about seeing hundreds of other boats alongside yours, rats on boats, terrible food, and all manner of bait-and-switch scams. So I splurged and went with a luxury boat that follows a seldom-visited route, embarking from Haiphong and exploring La Han Bay, away from the hordes in Halong Bay. But the typhoon continued, so I didn't soak it up on the sun deck, and I couldn't get any wonderful photos that everyone is there for. I did swim and kayak in the Gulf of Tonkin without incident, though. It was really peaceful - I just tried not to notice all the garbage in
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