Karsting Aspersions

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It’s often said you should strive to see “so and so” before you die. Usually by those who have recently been to “so and so” and really want to be acknowledged for their adventurousness in going to “so and so”.

In that same spirit then, can I extol the virtues of Halong Bay in Northern Vietnam? Dare I mention it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the seven wonders of the natural world? Recognised for its outstanding beauty and its trademark network of limestone karst.

Should I outline that not only will we see Halong Bay but, we’ll also experience it by cruising overnight on a specially designed tourist vessel. Journeying deep into the maze of vertical volcanic plugs and rock formations. Perhaps, I’ve said too much already. And when you know Carolyn, and I have been here before maybe you think us to be “so and so's” for having a second go?

Oh well, too late for the Boes. However, spare a thought for Mark and Wendy. It’s their first time, so they’re allowed bragging rights.

On arrival at Halong City, you effectively check onto a tourist's vessel just as you would any hotel. Your bags are managed for you by the excellent staff and a room as comfortable as any on-land establishment is ready and waiting for you.

Once you’re settled in you can kick back, relax and let it all happen. The cruiser starts its journey into the network of karst. These are the 2000 or so, limestone towers that people come from all over the world to see. And especially since 1994 when Vietnam emerged into the light its psyche fully recovered from its well-documented difficulties.

Halong Bay is indeed a remarkable place. Breathtakingly beautiful. Awe-inspiring and beguiling. Its a phantasmagoric seascape of muted greens, chalky greys, dusty browns and liquid blues. The scene is punctuated and occasionally enhanced by one of the many tourist vessels that venture into the bay 365 days a year.

When the leisure craft eventually moor for their overnight anchorage at around dusk, a welcome quiet descends. That’s when Halong Bay, shrouded in mist, treats you to a multilayered vista of natural hues and textures that become evermore obscure as the light dims and the karst recede from view. They create a ghostly horizon of indistinct shapes that at their nadir become no more than the idea of a structure and ultimately fade away entirely. This is Brigadoon writ large, and it is captivating.

But the bay is also alive with activity. Tourism is one of the lifebloods of the region. On our cruise, we were able to visit a preternatural cave, kayak around one of the smaller karst and visit a floating fishing village. All fascinating little insights into the nooks and crannies of the bay.

On board the Huong Hai Sea Life pleasure cruiser we enjoyed good food served by accommodating staff. There were useful lessons including a Vietnamese cooking class and a spot of early morning TaiChi. The team served us with great dignity even when they were required to do a well-rehearsed dance to welcome us on board. Don't think that would be allowed in the UK it is akin to ritualistic coercion. But they did it with a smile and a warm heart no doubt.

So to conclude. Everyone should see Halong Bay in their lifetime. Its a place so fabulous that to not even consider it would be a mistake. Mark and Wendy definitely loved it and can tick it off their must-do bucket list.

And as for the Boes, well, this would be the second time we’ve enjoyed the spectacle. Sorry to mention it and all that!

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