wild weather and dead noblemen

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Last I left it we were in the beautiful Hoi An about 4km inland from the beacf of Cau Dai, and the southern side of Marble mountain and Hai Van Pass. 'Twas an early start yesterday to make our way northwards, firstly stopping at China beach where soldiers spent time R&R'ing from the ravages of the Vietnam war. Then it was into the city of Danang again for the museum of sculpure from the Cham people. Cham island is near to Hoi An, and a feature of this central region. Many relics at this museum had been excavated from nearby archeological sites, largely as tributes to Shiva, Buddha, and much fertility symbolism. Yes, that means lots of curvy rounded objects and statues with elephant trunks and 20 breasts in circular formation. Interesting, but hard work with the humidity (and heat!) which sits at approx 90% day long.

Next we drove (by air con coach for 12, plus guide and driver) over the Hai Van pass, 468m above sea level and an amazing pportunity to get some perspective of the bay area. At the misty summit, got the usual touts insistent we buy something. Interestingly each stall had their WC in clear letters, a humble squat or dirty western loo with no paper. They then cheekily grab your arm , and stop you leaving all until you give in and buy something from them. I am getting hardened to this, but it surely takes energy to keep resisting their persistent approach! This pass has had a tunnel built beneath it, which is about 5km long, accomplished mainly from investment of Japanese government (like many projects here, the locals need as they say 'sugar', or money!). All but motorbikes and petrol tankers can use it, so that means some trucks and motorbikes on our descent towards Lang Co beach, and the northern climate of Vietnam. This range is at least 1.5km high and hence acts like a natural barrier. Hence, Hue is more humid than the south, so it seems, and even reaches 42+C in recent months. Lunch was at this neat faily run place in Hue, called Ushi's. The lady paraded us as she will dress in the melbourne cup 2007, showed us her DVD she has released in Holland, and generally lapped up our pretend admiration of her (she thinks she's famous but she was not). And she is 47 yrs old you know (everyone in the restaurant knows now!). Interesting. The Dutch tourists that came after us loved her. I loved it so much I returned for dinner while the rest of the crew played dress up Kings and Queens, not my cup of tea. I got lost then found again, and enjoyed the best nights sleep in ages.

Today has been amazing - did someone say 4 seasons for Hue? The banks of Hue on the perfurm river are wide tree lined pathways and boulevards, reminiscent of the increasingly European infleunces in these parts. I managed to navigate for a walk this morning, and had an interesting (it all is interesting really, emphamisim for .....) experience across one of the bridges which I discovered last minute was for trains and the ever present motorbikes. Hence a rapid retreat across the other side! When we left the hotel at 9am it had just begun raining. By this I mean torrential, and within 20 mins the streets were mid calf high in wet stuff. We made a decison for plan B, that was to go everywhere by coach (no 4wd!). So out to the tombs via the 'countryside' (flooded paddies, end of harvesting season) it was. A few school kids off school today provided some fun at the local markets, so too did a palm reader of 80 yrs old. This was followed by some random arm grabbing to use the loo, and 'buy bananans from MY stall please please'etc. No loyalty here mate, it's a buyers market. Just hold on to you valuables. The tombs were great in a flooded kind of way, and proved what I had always thought - that kings endured a very pampered existence with their own island to hunt and fish from! Some emperors were only very young, and so the furniture fits them were very small. Interesting, again, but oh so happy for the trip about midday to fanned comfort of the buddhist monastery for female nuns. Gave us an elaborate feast, which we donated back to them for. They receive about 30,000 dong a day for food and simple living. Having cruised back to the hotel Queen Hue (second choice as the crew revolted at the 'riverside hotel' yesterday upon arraival!) we are now about to head by overnight train to Hanoi. CRossed fingers for no derailments, delays, western loos and some air con!!!
Until next time..

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Photos

hue rain
just an average day in Hue, after 20 minutes of rain

Hue temple
many pagodas in Hue for us weary travellers to pray for less rain and more sunshine, and pretend to be arty farty photographers with reflections on the lily pond...