After shitty Hue anything would have blown our socks off but Phong Nha was really something special, the drive up in the bus gave you glimpses of what was in store and we were excited to explore when the sun got up the next day.
We had our free breakfast (always a winner) and hired a moped to head out and explore the national park. There were beautiful limestone mountains as far as the eye could see. Everywhere was thick dense jungle and the place was really wonderful to explore. We paid entry to Paradise cave which was well worth the money. It was only discovered (by the Brits of course) in 2009 and was the most beautiful and impressive cave either of us had ever seen, and there was still 7km of the cave left not open to the public, it was ginormous. Huge stalactites and stalagmites like walls or statues covered the inside of the cave. After we'd got our fill we trekked back to the bike and continued to motor about enjoying the amazing scenery and taking beautiful pictures and videos as we went. We did bike over to Phong Nha cave but the weekend tourist boats whopping and shouting didn't appeal or seem to fit with our serene day and so we opted out of that one and went back to the village for a late lunch and booked our ticket onto Hanoi for that evening.