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Published: February 17th 2012
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Village House
Each village has a central meeting place, formerly just for men. Last time we were in Vietnam, we missed the Central Highlands, so we were glad to make the trip this time. The highlands are in the west of the country, right along the Cambodian border. For several reasons, mostly political, the government requires that tourists travel with both a permit and a guide – and you can’t have the same guide for the whole trip.
We had a VERY pleasant experience at the Saigon airport boarding our plane to Pleiku – no body scanners, no separation of your lip balm or electronics. We were met at the Pleiku airport by our guide, Banh, and a driver and driven to the town of Kontum. It was late, and we walked the streets for a while, looking for water and beer (of course). Public transportation in the highlands is almost non-existent and roads are not in good repair – unlike the Saigon area. We knew that the following days might bring transportation challenges, but they did not.
Our first day, we were picked up on motorbikes by our guides, two charming young women, Banh and Pris. (No last names are used by these indigenous people.) They drove us all over
Tom's Friend
This 87-year-old man played bamboo music for us. He had fought in Vietnam's wars since 1942. the area, concentrating on what are called ethnic minority villages. These are the rural homes of indigenous peoples, the Montagnard (mountain people), whose land is owned by the Vietnamese or Cambodian governments, but who live where their tribes have lived for centuries, apparently crossing the borders between Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos through the forests without regard for the relatively new political boundaries. There are conflicts, sometimes open, with the Vietnamese central government, which has been criticized for its indifference to human rights here. Banh and Pris took us to many Banar and Ja Rai tribal villages, showed us how people live, introduced us to many, and treated us to an authentic Montagnard lunch. This was a huge platter of different leaves and herbs that you fold together and wrap around pieces of meat or fish, hot peppers, and several different sauces – definitely the way you would eat if you were in the forest with much greenery around you, but not much meat. The two young women also took us to the homes of friends, where we were offered MORE food, to a home for lepers, and to a home where members of several French charitable organizations were meeting to
Wedding Photo
In Buon Ma Thuot, where a couple is getting their wedding pix made in the coffee museum's park. discuss their various projects to help the people. I’d bought a book full of colorful children’s stickers to give away, and we used almost all of them that day. We almost caused a riot.
This area was home to many American soldiers during the war. The good news: we’re called “mi” – meaning uncle (wonder where THAT came from?) and the people were very happy to see us. One man immediately pulled out a copy of his mother’s US Army ID card – and we met men Tom’s age that fought with the US troops. They were very open about their liking for Americans and their polite disdain for the central Vietnamese government. We met an 87-year-old man who had fought (not clear which side) in Vietnam’s wars since 1942. He played a bamboo instrument like a marimba and was thrilled almost to tears with the $10 Tom gave him. This is the other side: they are VERY poor and are still feeling the impacts of our time there. The French people (and some Americans) are working to help the 700 orphans (700? In a town of about 140,000???) who are largely the products of relationships between Vietnamese women
Tourism in Nha Trang
We came to Nha Trang purely so Tom could toast himself on the beach. and western men. You can see some unexpected freckles or streaks of blond hair everywhere. All the western workers encouraged any and everyone to come and volunteer – there are so many things that need to be done, regardless of one’s age or abilities. A suggestion from them – and it’s on the web – look for “Dust of Life” articles and even a movie about the abandoned children.
The next morning, we were met our new guide, a young man whose name showed up as both “Tom” and “Sam” – we learned that if you combine the two, you pronounce it correctly – Tsam. We were his first tourists and he was learning fast. We also had an experienced driver who made the trip relaxing and no-stress: Nguyen Van Hai. He was great! We drove all day from Kontum to the town of Buon ma Thuot. Kontum had almost no tourists, but BMT teemed with Europeans, Koreans, and Japanese. Our hotel was nice, but the dining room was packed, so we went down the street about a block to a small, local restaurant called Tuyen Loi. We’ll have to write to Lonely Planet about it – excellent and
For the Pilots
Tom took this one for you. cheap. By the way, at the hotel we saw a bicycle tour group that was riding the same hills we drove in our very comfortable Chevy Sentra. That would have been a tough ride – Don and Bettina?
In this area, it’s easy to see the lingering effects on the forest of the defoliants used during the war – although the crops look healthy, the older trees are yellowed and withered. We went to Yokdon National Park where we had a very good one-hour elephant ride. The mahout basically let the elephant wander and browse for food, guiding him back to the start point and letting us get off at a raised platform. I told Tom that if I could have an elephant for a pet, I would. Tsam, our guide, told us that the tribal people do not consider elephants to be animals, but rather humans. I agree. We were able to see other minority villages, as well as the crops of the highlands: coffee, black pepper, cashews, cacao, cassava, bananas, rubber, etc. I hope to put together a presentation for the kids, who probably don’t realize that pepper wasn’t born in a shaker.
We drove about
Childrten in Kontum Area
We visited many ethnic minority villages and passed out small colorful stickers, almost causing a kiddie riot. four hours the next day to the coastal town of Nha Trang, over a mountain range and down to the sea. We visited this city four years ago, but it’s truly been changed by the huge influx (invasion?) of European tourists, especially Russians. We added this town to our itinerary purely for the beach, and Tom’s about the color of a lobster after two days of lying in the sun. I hid under a big umbrella, but still got a little. We try to walk 1-2 hours each day, drinking enough water that we sweat through our clothes within about 20 minutes. Thank goodness for hotel laundries!
In a couple of days, we’ll take the night train to DaNang and the home of our friends in Hoi An. We’ll let you know what a Vietnamese “soft sleeper” is like.
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Kathleen
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New Pet
Not only could Miss Ellie (short of course for elephant) pull Kudzo from the trees, she could pull out all the dead and diseased trees on the mountain. she could push all winter visitors up the mountains when the ice and snow got a little too much and she could shoot water from her trunk at all the pesky squirrels. shw would, of course, have to share some space in the outdoor pen with Tulip, but all in all, I think she would be adorable. Certainly would keep Coronna in line.