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Published: October 10th 2014
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Oct 2-4 Samarkand
We took the 0840 fast train called the Sharq from Bukhara to Samarkand. Excellent trip in 'business class ' for just $13 for the three hr trip, nice three seat compartment for the two of us. After cuppa of tea and a few bickies, we set off to explore a couple of nearby monuments.
First was the Gur Emir - an amazing 15thC mausoleum built to house the body of Amur Timur, their famous leader of the time who raided and conquered most of the surrounding countries during a 9 yr rampage from 1386 to 1395. This mausoleum had the most brilliant tiled domed ceiling one could imagine and contained the tomb of Timur and five of his family, including Ulleg Bek.
Next morning, we set off to walk to the Registan - the centre of Samarkands most well known monuments. The Registan is the pinnacle of Samarkand's sights, and comprises three massive Madressas. The first built in 1420 was the Uleg Bek Madressa - built in a (hard to believe) three years, this was a mastercraft building which has required the least restoration. Has spectacular formed ceilings, many classrooms and lecture theatres where astronomy
and Mathematics were taught to elite students. Two hundred years later, two additional Madressas were built, the Sher Dor(Lion) in 1636 and the Tillla Kari(Gold covered) in 1660. The Tilla Kari is notable for its flat roof under the dome which has the 'appearance' of being curved. Covered in gold, this is remarkable construction and decoration.
A short walk took us to the Bibi-Khanym Mosque built in 1400' and notable for its massive size. Was once the largest Mosque in the region with a height of the cupola being 45 m. Has been extensively restored but remains a beautiful building.
Shah-I-Zinda is described as the 'Avenue' of Mausoleums. Built from the 13th C, it now contains over 40 mausoleums of many famous religious leaders. Featuring some amazing terracotta and majolica, many of the buildings were controversially restored 15 yrs ago, but still this place remains an important pilgrimage site.
The Old City in Samarkand has been substantially sealed off from the 'newer restored parts, but we were able to 'find' the gate that allowed us to enter the old Jewish qtr, and we explored the area. Some interesting old mosques, and the Synagogue were still seen.
On our final day in Samarkand, we took a mashtruka to Uleg bek's Observatory, one of the greatest archaeological finds of the 20thC. Ulleg Bek built a 3story observatory in the 1420's, and he managed some remarkably accurate astronomical measurements that remain accurate even today. Only a small portion of the curved track remains today.
The Afriosab museum was the last on our visit but contained probably the most impressive display - the 7thC fresco of the Sogdian king receiving visitors.
Dinner at Karimbek restaurant Russian, noisy, good service, ok food
Next morning, we caught the train again to Tashkent 1153 #9 Sharq. O/N at Gulnara B&B in old town part of Tashkent, after taking Metro from station to Chorsu Bazaar.
Final morning exploring the Chorsu Bazaar - huge market place selling every sort of meat, grain, fruit, vegetable etc. Afternoon Tashkent city tour with driver, and finally airport to catch China Southern airline to Beijing, Dragon Air Beijing to Hong Kong, and Air New Zealand HKK to Auckland.
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