Blogs from Bukhara, Uzbekistan, Asia - page 4

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Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara September 29th 2008

After an afternoon of waiting patiently for our passports at the Kazakh embassy we dashed across Tashkent and booked ourselves on the next train west, the night train to Bukhara. The bar was full of drunk russians, with the police keeping a tight watch on all passengers(particularly the man who fell asleep on the table!) Bukhara is the an old spiritual city, once very important on the Old Silk Road until the 16th Century. We spent our time wandering through the charming old town, with its winding roads and old bazaars and mosques. The Kalon Minaret and mosque was spectacular, although our first attempt to go in was at prayer time, so we swiftly departed to return again at a more suitable hour! Once in, we climbed the minaret built in 1127 and spared by Genghis ... read more
Uzbek Chess
The Kalon Minaret
The "Silk" Carpets

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara September 27th 2008

“He's followed us a long time now”, M whispered nervously, eyes flickering over the crowd around us. “A very bad man. You know the CNG?” Not personally so far, thankfully, but I’d heard a bit about them. The Uzbek branch of the KGB, which had apparently survived more or less intact after the collapse of the Soviet Union. While they don’t inspire the same level of fear as back in their Soviet heyday, these are still not guys you want to have to deal with if you can avoid it. Keeping her head down, and barely looking at me at all, M outlined her plan in a panicky whisper that was starting to scare me, and then slipped suddenly away into the crowd. I stared after her for a moment, and then couldn’t resist surreptiously scanning ... read more
Waiting for the dawn...
Mir-i-Arab Medressa in the early morning
Lunch with a view

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara September 20th 2008

We had a free day in Samarkand - it was a bit of a lazy day for me . The next morning we headed out on our way to Bukhara. We had a Yurt stay planned and then a visit to Nurota and the Holy Fish! The Yurt stay was quite surreal. Most Yurts/Gers we have come across in the past were in the middle of nomad pastures … this one was smack bang in the Uzbek desert. After around 6hrs of driving on main roads we left the bitumen and headed along desert tracks. It was flat boring desert but we eventually came into a dip in the sand and here was a yurt camp complete with camels. It was a really nice night. Very peaceful and a good rest….. The following morning we continued ... read more
Yurts
Mosque at Nurota
Caravanserai in the Uzbek desert

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara September 7th 2008

I spend two days spent in Bukara visting Madrassas and Mosques. Sublime architecture with stunning tile work and madrassahs with wonderfully simple rooms. The Kolon Mosque is massive and gives a real sense of the power of Bukara as a seat of Islamic learning. In addition i'm quite impressed by the density of madrassas in Bukara as it clearly signifies the strenght and influence it must have had over islamic scholarship across the wider Muslim world. I met a delightful Uzbek family who took me out to Bakhautdin Naqshband Mausoleum who was the famous 14th century founder of an influential Sufi order. I then ate with them before listening to Jamchit play at the Bukara Palace Hotel. The next day I fasted as its ramadam to try it out which was really quite hard. My only ... read more
Ismail Samani Mausoleum

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara September 4th 2008

Or as they say in Uzbek - Buyuk Ipak Yoli Am in Buchara, Uzbekistan, an oasis in the Kyzyl kum desert, a sbopping place for camel caravans carrying exotic wares, for thousands of years.... There are camel statues round the ornamental pool which is one of the centres of the old town, Lyabi Hauz. Lined with old willows and choikhanas under the trees where dogs, cats and ducks live pretty much in harmony (it was two cats I saw fighting)! There should be a fable in that somewhere.... There are turquoise blue mosaiced iwans (mosque entrance) opposite eachother across the pool, which were glinting in the the sparkling light of the setting sun as I drank my one beer... so shanti and pretty perfect. Getting here was not so difficult for me, luckily, I have not ... read more

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara July 17th 2008

We thought we were going to be home free after reaching Bukhara as we were back in civilisation which meant being able to drink cold water. Well, things aren't that simple around here! As hard as it is to believe, it is also actually hotter here than it was at the yurt camp, I am guessing the thermostat has edged over 50 degrees...And the search for cold beer and water led us halfway around the town and it was only after stopping at 7 shops that we were able to find colder than room temperature drinks! Even as the sun goes down, relief is still not in reach as the warm air rises from the ground and makes it feel even hotter than when the sun is out! During dinner last night, we all struggled to ... read more
quiet time at the Kalon Mosque
view of Miri-Iarab Medressa
Kalon Minaret

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara July 9th 2008

On to Bukhara - another ancient and historic city - famous for it's huge prison. The weather really begins to heat up in Central Uzbekistan and my farmer's tan comes on quite nicely. (For some reason, city tours always happen in the heat of the day). Bukhara had the feel and charm of Khiva, but it was much bigger and more touristy. The city walls were huge and imposing and the central square, with it's large pond and surrounding shashlyk (kebab) restaurants, was stunning. One evening, I went to what was alledgedly a cultural evening at a restaurant in the courtyard of an old madrassa, but it bizarrely turned into a kind of Uzbek fashion show... That night I went to a nightclub in the basement of a large hotel - one thing you can say ... read more
Jugs
Bukhara City Walls

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara October 30th 2007

Depuis hier on est a Bukhara. Apres un super sejour a Samarkand. Le train de Samarkand a Bukhara etait super comfortable avec une tele qui en plein son nous montrai une serie prison en russie. Apres 3h on est arrive a Bukhara, dans un super B&B Nasriddin avec salle de bain et toilette dans notre chambre. en plus une tele avec 600chaine.... Depuis deux semaine on a pas probleme avec lestomac, mais cette semaine commence avec un changement. Leau est vraiment mauvais ici surtout quand on a lu lhistoire du systeme du transport de leau. car il y avait que deux sources un fleuve est un puie qui se trouve au centre. heuresement ca a change surtout quand on apprend quelle maladie on peut avoir, un parasite qui se place dans le muscle et qui se ... read more

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara October 30th 2007

Hallo euch allen, haben mal wieder keine zeit und wenig motivation empfunden uns in die haeufig langsamen internetcafes zu schleppen und euch hier auf dem laufenden zu halten. daher faellt es jetzt schwer euch irgendetwas zu erzaehlen - man gelangt endlich endlich auf die seite wo man schreiben kann und schon macht sich ne leere im kopf breit - haben wir ueberhaupt etwas zu erzaehlen? ja, haben wir. Zu den Fakten: sind gestern von samarkand mit dem "schnellzug" (ca. 50 bis hoechstens 100km/h) nach buchara gefahren. der zug war luxus - fernsehen mit russischen Knastserien in voller, endlich etwas asiatischer lautstaerke, suessigkeiten und ne funktionierende heizung, auch wenn wir auf diese gerne verzichtet haetten. haben ein schoenes, wenn auch etwas teureres guesthouse gefunden. die 1 dollar fuenfzig mehr, zahlen wir aber gerne fuer das eigene bad ... read more

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara May 6th 2007

Enough with the turquoise turrets. We felt like spoilt kids with parents that owned a fudge shop - wonderful merchandise, beautiful in fact, but please, not one more piece. Sadly, looking at beautiful stuff can get a bit tiring (of course, looking at my wife will never get tiring - need to include this to ensure I get dinner tonight). Today was our last day in Bukhara, before we would head off to our final city in Uzbekistan, Khiva. We'd saved the best sites for last, which at the time had seemed like a good idea. Alas, 2 days in Bukhara combined with sweltering heat and overly heavy tummies with much too much shashkalieks in them made day 3 in Bukhara tiring ... but still nevertheless fun. First up we headed over to Bukhara's most famous ... read more
The Kalon Mosque
Our good friends Ahmed and Salim
Clean and vibrant carpets




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