A Perfect, Short Holiday

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About 17 months ago I sat by the beautiful River Kwai, not wanting to leave. I had a year of big decisions ahead of me and staying put seemed like the best plan, though not very realistic. I left on time, but only after promising myself that I would come back to that very spot in one year's time.

So, a year passed, I survived unscathed, and I live in Thailand. With just a few days off for the national new year's holiday, I headed west to Kanchanaburi. I went back to the same guest house--the same room even, knowing that I'd know my way around, have great food, and gorgeous views. Plus, it's just a great area to wander, get lost, and take photos. All in all, my ideal holiday. I spent the next two days relaxing next to the River Kwai.



I arrived at the bus station around 7 pm, after only a two hour journey from Bangkok. With everyone on the road, I'd expected it to take longer. (Like my return trip did, at over 3 hours.) My guest house sent a songthaew to pick me up and I was whisked away into the cool night. I knew the weather would be chillier than in Bangkok, but this was colder than I'd expected! I lasted all of 5 minutes on my private deck at my guest house and ended up taking a shower to get warm before I went to bed. China behavior, as I think of it. (Incidentally, I read an actual newspaper the next day and the high in Guangzhou is currently the same as the low here, so I guess I shouldn't complain too much.)

The next day I slept in and went to get a massage. I went back to the same little place as last summer and within a minute, the owner looked at me and said, "I remember you!" Well, if a 17 month gap followed by those words doesn't make you feel like a valued customer, I don't know what does. It all looks about the same except now there's a new kitten with a little dingle bell around her neck. She's in that delightful stage of running around to show us all who's boss, while also being being horribly confused by things like curtains. On my second visit, she thought it was a grand idea to keep attacking my toes while I was getting my massage. After the third time, they finally put her in the bathroom. Fortunately, I couldn't stop laughing.

I spent most of my second day just wandering around the old part of the city (with fewer tourist traps), taking photos, enjoying a mocha and a mammoth sized brownie (the best I've found in Thailand!) in a 100+ year old building, taking photos, getting just a little bit lost, trying to get lost a bit more, poking my head into little nooks and crannies... and then relaxing again on my private deck with a good book and a beautiful sunset over the River Kwai.

NYE in Kanchanaburi is the same as anywhere else: bars full of go-go dancers, loud music, over-priced drinks, and staff who look desperate for the evening to end. I skipped by all of that on my way back from 7-11. I decided that a quiet night on my little deck with the river and a beer was a bit more to my liking. My plan was to go out around 11:50 and enjoy about 15 minutes of the chilly weather and the peace and quiet.

But around 11:45, the booming started. I heard my neighbors go out. I went out. We sat on our little decks, beers in hands, watching three different fireworks displays over the river: one to the north by the wat, one due west, and one to the south. When one was exploding in the night sky, another was getting ready to go up. It was like watching a tennis match, but a little bit slower and more interesting. Then they'd all stop for 2 minutes, we'd carry on chatting, and then they'd all fire up again for another 5 minutes. This lasted for nearly half an hour or so. My neighbor and I stayed out chatting for another hour before wishing each other a happy new year and heading to bed.

Not quite the peaceful night I'd envisioned, but far better than anything I could have hoped for. Warm weather, cold beer, lots of fireworks, and no crowds. I'd call this the best NYE in years.

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Photos

My view
I just can't get enough of this.

And now the sun is setting a bit.
Did I mention how much I love this view?

Hua Hong Shop
This coffee shop's building is over 100 years old.