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Published: July 16th 2008
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I've just been riding around the roads of Koh Tao on a Quad Bike while taking in the spectacular views of the island. Koh Tao has developed considerably since my last stay way back in 2002, but it still remains one of my favourite islands in Thailand. Even though the main strip now has five star accommodation the Thai people seem to have neglected road maintenance. I assume its because they make so much money from insurance companies following the daily motorbike accidents that it would not be in their best interests to eliminate such a profit making scheme.
Everywhere you go on Koh Tao there are pot holes and shear drops off the mountain roads. Mud holes and sand scatter the half arsed attempts at Thai roads, while 4x4 jeeps recklessly drive past at lightening speed creating dangerous conditions even for the most experienced biker.
A friend of mine joined me from the UK and we ended up going out for a few drinks. As we sat at the bar discussing the best way to travel around the island, we looked around at the people in the bar. I couldn't help notice that at least one person in
every group of friends had bandages around their legs or arms from motorbike accidents. Some people would tell stories of how they had to pay hundreds of pounds to repair damaged motorbike while others would complain that their insurance companies would not cover them for such injuries. Some people had accidents that looked horrifying while others would be on their way home on medical insurance.
Taking into account the stories from other travellers, we decided to play it safe and hire a 4x4 Quad Bike instead of a motorbike. We figured we are less likely to fall off a vehicle with 4 wheels and could take it anywhere on the island. Besides neither of us had ridden a Quad Bike which would add to the adventure. We knew we could go off road and have some fun which would be extreme!
We found our way to a Quad Bike rental company and signed away our passports and bank accounts to cover bike damage. After a five minute introduction on how to ride the bike, off we went touring the island. It took around 20 minutes to become comfortable with the bike before we pulled out a map and
went between each of the bays around the coast while taking in the beautiful beaches of Koh Tao.
While riding around the island we soon realised that the fuel gauge was broken on the bike. We didn't have a clue how much petrol was in the bike so had to fill it to the top. We found out later from other travellers that this is indeed a scam arranged between all bike rental companies and the petrol stations to get the most money possible out of tourists.
As we became more comfortable on the roads we decided to take the Quad Bike to extremes. We stumbled across one of the most insane road you could imagine with what seemed like almost vertical mountain roads. Coasting the bike down the mountain road was fine, but when we realised we had to return back the way we came, I was instinctively concerned especially when you take into account neither of us had ridden a Quad Bike before. Based on my track record of accidents, it was obvious another disaster was probably on the cards.
As I attempted to start the Quad Bike we soon realised we were in trouble.
The bike would not start and we were in an incredibly remote bay with very few people around. After fiddling around with the engine and various other parts of the bike, I soon noticed that the power cable to the battery had snapped. It took a while before we got the bike going again which was only possible thanks to a very friendly Thai bloke that lived on the bay. If it wasn't for him, we could have been very easily sleeping on the beach that evening!
As I attempted to ride the Quad Bike up an unbelievably steep incline, the bike got stuck in slippery mud and began to wheel spin. Even through I was accelerating, the bike started to slide backwards down the insane road. Eventually it began tipping backwards making me realise my weight on top of the bike was not going to get me out of this situation. I jumped off while holding the break and then began to accelerate. It continued to wheel spin so a couple of Thai lads came over and helped push the bike up hill. As the bike continued to slide backwards it did another wheel spin straight over my foot. I jumped with pain as it used my foot as leverage out of the hole it created. At first I didn't feel the pain, but I soon realised it had removed the top end of my toe nail. It was quite painful! Where was my friend while all this was happening? Well, she was at the top of the mountain road filming the whole incident on her camera.
After driving around the island with my foot bleeding all over the place we eventually found a hospital. The nurse decided I needed to have most of my toe nail removed. Without any anaesthetic she began cutting out the remaining nail which was incredibly painful. Especially when it involved sticking a scalpel and scissors right under the nail before removal. I was dripping with sweat while she performed the operation. I now have a big bandage around my toe, meaning I have earned my battle scars to show off at the bar, even if they are small in comparison to everyone else ;-)
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