The Paradise Gulf

---

Standing at the dock in Thong Sala the arrival of the smart looking Lomprayah Catermeran was promising if not for the people who emerged curiously soaking wet. On board we managed to grab the last two seat in what was a mini cinema and sat down to watch some chick flick about losing a guy in 10 days whilst the people in front became soaking wet from a dripping air conditioner. Shortly before arriving over choppy seas to Ko Tao the most low budget promotional video ever created was shown which reminded us of a similar one we had seen about Manchester some time ago which cited its plusses and being near to Liverpool. At the port a chunky Thai lady in an I Love the King t-shirt held up a "Dlaire Rozario" sign but we had to wait some time in the police station car park before we were driven to our chosen resort whilst we awaited some other tardy passengers. Spending the time eating BLT's and saving the lives of two beetles who had upturned themselves our lady returned wearing a saggy cap and stupid platform heels looking like Missy Elliot promising that our bags were safe here as the police would be "in big shit" if they were stolen. Eventually we jumped in the back of her truck and covered ourselves in tarpaling as the heavens opened. Picking up a middle aged German couple on the way we began a virtually non existent track through thick jungle and somehow, our lady in platforms managed to heave us up and over a mountain in torrential rain on a track we would have thought twice about trekking on foot.

Descending (sliding) down to Leam Thian, a collection of crude buildings erected amongst the most amazing outsized boulders which here and there dropped into the choppy sea. Slinging our luggage off Missy in the platforms reliably confirmed her insanity and informed us that the sun was not out today because he got pissed the day before and was urinating on us!? Anyway, we checked into our hotel style room which was along a flooded and unpleasant corridor but which was clean and commanded decent views from its balcony of the rugged beachless bay. As there was allegedly a point where you could jump from the rocks into the water Claire and I set out to find it but had no luck negotiating the maze of boulders and rubbish left by the staff. Eventually a man in a towel led us up a silly track which we'd already dismissed and up through dense foliage on a rickety Indiana Jones style rotten ladder. It was a great view but there was no way we'd be jumping in so we descended, showered, ate a rough hamburger and amused ourselves by doodling over some Australian gossip magazine with moustaches and outsized naughty bits. To my surprise I also found a copy of "100 years of solitude" on the bookshelf so having hunted for it throughout South America without success I grabbed it and we retired to bed. At some indeterminate point during the night a huge storm ripped across the bay and pounded a wall of rain at our room door which after no time at all gave up and let water in by the bucketload across the floor and had me frantically salvaging clothes and mopping.

Although we didn't severley dislike the place we decided the next morning that we would move on and take advantage of the lunchtime transfer back to the main port so we checked out and spent the morning reading on the rocks and snorkelling with overpriced gear in water busy with fish but lacking in live coral. The highlight however was the sighting of a retreating green and purple Trigger Fish, 10 times larger than those we'd seen and loved in Australia. The jungle track back to port was a little better in fair weather and we rocked and rolled through the amazing forest of palms among which huge boulders sat as if a giant had been placing them in his garden. Back at Mae Hat we found the annoying problem of when you want hawkers there are none to be seen but managed to hail a cab to Chalok beach, a pleasant bay full of Dive resorts and the odd restaurant. Deciding to press on towards the South West tip and viewpoint bungalows we walked along the concrete pier over the water only to find Viewpoint was full. Deciding to see what was on the other side on June Juea beach we hiked a steep climb with bags on and to our delight procured a beautifully quaint lemon and aqua bungalow at Orchid Cliff set high on the hill and looking down onto the boulder strewn bay and clear coral waters. It was the bay that we walked down to that afternoon and sat with incredible serenity on a huge slab of rock watching the water roll ashore through glittering gulleys and pools. As the sun set from our balcony we were lucky enough to witness two Sharks surfacing and a school of flying fish leaping from an unseen threat.

The following day after an embarrasingly early night we set off by foot, taxi and finally boat on an all day snorkelling trip around Ko Tao. The first stop at Shark Island presented no sharks sadly but it did boast sheer cliffs of clinging coral which teemed with life and a few unwelcome armpit stings from jellyfish broken by waves. The next site at Hin Wong bay presented no baracuda as promised but the seafloor rocks were covered in Christmas tree worms which spiked the rocks like tiny rainbow pipe cleaners. Not for the first time we were joined on the boat by a group of Koreans who loved themselves with staged photographs and wooed the fellow passengers with showmanship. At Mango bay we donned our mask and flippers once more and stepped into the water before shrieking at the site of thousands of jellyfish each the size of a fist billowing their cushion forms on all sides. Choosing not to risk a sting we hurriedly climb back on board to watch a few brave souls navigate the puffs of pain and quite unpleasantly to watch the on board toilet flush a bucketful of crap into the water which the fish ate in a frenzied few seconds. The final stop of the day was to the breathtaking Nang Yuan Islands, consisting of 3 peaks of different sizes linked by a causeway of salt white sand. The islands are actually a flashy and exclusive resort and just to visit we paid 100 Baht to step ashore and walked the wooden walkway up to the stunning viewpoint which overlooked the trio of islands. Back down on the sand causeway we donned our snorkelling gear and headed out over largely dead coral, passed a couple of hexagon grouper and further out found huge gangs of Parrot fish and Butterfly fish audibly munching on the dead coral. Then as we were about to turn back Claire spotted a hufe 4ft Tiger striped Baracuda which we chased but lost and then a huge Triggerfish like the one we had seen from afar in Leam Thian vacantly flapped past us. In pursuit of the big loping Trigger Fish another, even larger crossed our paths and swam around us. Another fantastic days snorkelling over we boarded the boat once more and on return to our bungalow, watched the atmospherically outsized sun right on the horizon just like it did in Western Australia. Going Going Gone. After a delicious meal at Viewpoint Restaurant we walked to Chalok town but on the way Claire stubbed her toe on a rock in the dark and on getting into the light realised that it was streaming with blood warrenting some impromptu first aid outside the 7/11. As we walked back near Viewpoint a chorus of Toads in the little stream filled the air with bizarre moans and groans, as if someone had sat on a bagpipe. With the power out across the bay, we returned to our hut and fanlessly sweated through the night in the swealtering heat.

The following day was spent mostly on the cosy but quiet strip of sand outside Moondance although I did go for an hour trek through the jungle on a ever dissapearing path to check out the beaches to the north. After several bays over hills and through resorts I arrived at Sai Thong and stopped in amazement. Knowing that we liked our current accomodation I checked the prices and found them and it's only restaurant a little steep so returned to Claire and decided to walk there the following day rather than move altogether. The morning came and after another fine breakfast at Viewpoint we hiked up the coast through the jungle path to the stunning palm fringed bay at Sai Thong. Bordered on all sides by huge slabs of Granite which had been cracked by movement and smoothed over time by rain, the perfectly proportioned bay was backed by a stand of tall palm trees between two of which an enormous swing invitingly swayed. Well it was an immensly enjoyable day relaxing on the postcard beach, jogging into the water to cool off and picking shells on the most idyllic bay you could imagine and certainly wouldn't whinge if stranded on. There were only a handful of others present but one girl swimming around the rocks on which I was standing cut her foot on an oyster and I had to dash over to give yet more first aid! I knew that course would come in handy. A few more swings between the palms and we walked back to eat our final meal at Viewpoint where we were joined by a lovely Kiwi couple Rex and Fleur who had just started their long trip. Afterwards on the walk back past the groaning bag pipes we made plans for our final forray in Bangkok and excitedly looked forward to flying to India.

First however we had to travel the entire length of Thailand once more so in the morning we checked out under grey skies and boarded a choppy longtail to the main port to wait for our ferry. Whilst eating lunch the heavens opened and a deluge of rain turned the streets to rivers as we readied for a dash to port. It didn't let up in the slightest so we ran and splashed to the pier to board the cinema seats of the Lomprayah Catermaran in the thick stormy gloom and prepare for a rough crossing. Well it was rougher than we could ever have imagined. For one and a half hours we were thrown around in Mountainous seas as heavy backpacks actually left the shelves and staff frantically ran and fell trying to hand out sick bags. Not just rising and falling like a formidable rollercoaster but twisting unpredictably too before slamming into the wave troughs with a deafening crunch. Trying desperately to watch the ever dissapearing horizon and show mild interest in the Jim Carey movie it took every ounce of strength for us to fight back the nausea and treat the harrowing ride, as if it was fun, yes it's a fun, enjoyable ride we swallowed to ourselves. With stomachs high in our throats we somehow managed to avoid using the sick bags though many had failed and stepped off wearily relieved onto the long pier at mainland Chumporn. By all accounts the VIP room upstairs of the boat was a world of sick being that little bit higher but in any sense, it was about the worst journey imaginable. Ellen McCarthur if you are reading... you are extremely brave and if we may say rather insane.

Shortly after regaining our balance we boarded a coach which hurtled us north to Bangkok and being an hour behind, plomped us confusingly several roads from Ko San at a very buzy 1am. Once we'd found our way there, we began our hunt for accomodation steering past inebriated westerners and possibly more wasted Thais. With two places full we settled for Marcopolo and their poky noisy but refreshingly cheap single room. At first light I walked to New Siam Guesthouse a few cool and quiet streets away from Ko San and checked us in to a lovely spacious double before we set off for the River Taxi and another day of Bangkok jobs. Stocking up on Malaria pills from Boots and chancing upon a decent Scandanavian band called Kamikazee Jazz on their promotional record shop tour we scoured a few shops before returning to Webcam our parents.

In the morning we felt it was time to see at least some of Bangkoks sights and headed for The Grand Palace, a splendid array of dazzling buildings adorned with glinting mirror mosaics. Inside, taking a peak at the Emerald Buddha perched high on a golden throne we stepped outside and I to my horror yelped as my Camera began to display error messages before dying altogether. In a daze of dispair we hardly noticed the huge golden stupa and instead left immediately to seek help. A small camera shop near the Post Office directed us to Canon HQ where we sped immediately via Skytrain and arrived on the 10th Floor of Bangkok Tower to find a spacious Service Centre. Unfortunately the entire room was a waiting room and it was full of gloomy looking customers. Grabbing a ticket and gawping at the hour till closing and 60 numbers waiting I sat down and frantically tested my Camera to see if I could figure anything out. I did and when the numbers seemed to jump I leapt up and explained to the service lady the problem with my Lens. Now I wasn't expecting to be helped especially when she said three weeks and I replied that we fly to India tomorrow at 1pm. But after the engineer was summoned and seemingly pursuaded to do Overtime, I nearly hugged everyone there when told to come back at 10am to pick it up! Wow. Elatedly we headed back to pack our bags and contemplate the last of our destinations.

Up early on the bus to Wat Pho, a huge golf leaf covered building and in which a giant golden reclining buddha fills near every inch. Now this was more like it, a monstrous undulating form the length of a jumbos wingspan, feet the sides of pool tables and inlaid on their soles with beautiful Mother of Pearl. After the final bit of sightseeing Claire and I parted ways at the river taxi jetty and I went to go fetch my camera with all my fingers crossed. Incredibly, the engineer appeared, told me that my Power Diaphram had been replaced and with a big grin took a photo of me with his rather more expensive camera. Quite amazing service I thought and as I took his card so I could send something in gratitude I virtually skipped back to New Siam with a fully functioning Camera where we awaited our minibus to the airport . And what an airport it is. A very new building but lofty and spacious and in its modern frame of steel and glass and swooping travelators it was striking but softened by drooping canvas sails hung from the roof. A strange thing happened at check in. Our cancelled Tokyo and Hong Tickets confused the senior clerk and after some time he offered us the bizarre choice of paying $25 and having new tickets printed or not pay anything, and they just keep the two useless stubs. A quick glance at eachother, "Sure, you keep them" we said in unison. Then we paid 500Baht to the king walked up to customs and were told we had overstayed our visa! "Surely there must be some mistake" we cried but no, there was no mistake and we shamefully walked to a separate desk and paid our 30 pounds fine. Livid with ourselves but strangely proud to have a piece of paper confirming our overstay we strolled through the modern airport and its fancy stores and joined the throng of Indians for the flight to Mumbai.

A few minutes in and we became aware of everybody staring at us, piercing and uncomfortable but we knew there was more of that to come. For Thailand however, on recollection we had enjoyed many incredible experiences within its boundaries from the beauty and peace of the north to the idyllic beaches in the south but we both sensed that we had spent a little too long in Thailand in general (Clearly we were a few days over on the Visa but perhaps more aside). Thailand is a modern and dynamic South East Asian country in many ways but our experience as travellers was on several occasions tarnished by unfriendly rececptions, or dreadful service. This is of course only our experience and we're certain others will have found it differently but as comparison is our only resource we left Thailand with the impression that it perhaps felt so secure of the income from Tourism that it hardly mattered how visitors were treated and that it paled in comparison with the hospitality received in considerably poorer countries. Maybe we're way off the mark but that is how it felt. That said, it certainly wouldn't put us off going again by any means as Thailand was perhaps as diversely beautiful as anywhere we've been to. Although we knew travel in India was possibly the last place you'd look for an easy travelling experience, we now headed there with thrilling anticipation of the sensory explosion awaiting us.

Our goals of seeing the world and witnessing the desperate diversities in the way people live was not being fullfilled in Thailand. Nowhere else for it then... It must be India and our final leg.

---

Photos

The perfect swing
Glorious Sai Thong

One of the finest beaches in Thailand
Sai Thong, Ko Tao