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Published: January 28th 2011
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The full moon is inexplicably linked to lunacy (lunar...lunacy...hmmm). When the golden glowing orb appears in the ink black sky, man goes wild. Some say crimes are more likely to be committed on a full moon while others believe it makes us more susceptible to romance. Can the moon's cycle really effect our mood? Scientists constantly muse over the idea and for years literature and films have shown people turning into wolves and delving into their dark side whenever this celestial body fully shows itself to us. Whether or not a link between the brain and the moon does exist, we humans have found it to be a fine excuse to party. Why not blame it on the moon aye? The Full Moon Party in Koh Phangan, Thailand is all about giving in to one's hedonistic urges under the gaze of the moon that the half naked, neon paint covered, free spirits are celebrating while indulging in their favorite vices. I wanted to be there.
A cruel joke of fate perhaps, but my vacation time had me leaving Thailand days before the Full Moon Party. Disheartened, I sifted through the party sites until I found there would be a Black
Moon Party when I would be there! Tickets were bought, hostels booked, and travel partners sorted. I was ready. Until one day, when idly perusing the moon parties, I saw that I had misread the dates. We would actually be arriving on the island ONE DAY after the Half Moon Party!! I was horrified! My brain had failed me. Typical. But don't worry, the bodiless voices of the internet blogsphere said comforting me, Koh Phangan is ALWAYS a party. That made me feel better. Under a sliver of the man in the moon, I set off for the airport.
After a jaunt through Bangkok, another airplane ride, a ferry ride, a few meals and one very expensive glass of milk to cure the effects of the pepper I accidently ingested in Ko Samui, I had made it. My friend Kez, my brother Evan, and I took a taxi to our place in Baan Tai. Oh yes, I had somehow booked a hostel NOT on Haad Rin, where ALL the action happens. Had I ever traveled before? Because I was going about this like a headless chicken.
Turns out my mistake was a good one. Holiday Beach Resort was
beautiful, with a private beach, lovely grounds with hammocks and a pool, and was a nice retreat from the shitstorm that Haad Rin turned out to be. Plus Shine, the Thai manager of our place was a good friend, who we hung out with at night when Haad Rin disappointed. He was always "trying to land and floating through life". Pretty much he was on drugs and was the coolest dude we met in Thailand.
The vestiges of the Half Moon Party were all about the island. Posters and papers stuck to trees and lost looking girls with remnants of paint on their arms danced hypnotically by themselves, swaying their hips that were wearing neon green beach shorts. I looked around the dark, desolate beach where I sat on a wooden bench under an angry orange flame that was shooting out of a tiki torch. There were some people milling around, drinking whiskey buckets wistfully, and a bartender stood just out of sight in an empty club where techno music blasted ironically. My companions and I decided the mentally deficient-esque girls looked like the best to talk to. I was guessing no one had told them the party had
ended...
The girls stopped their personal dance party to sit down and talk to us about last nights festivities. "Oh god", sneered the blonde with long hair in her Aussie accent, "it was such trance shit. Just all trance music and everyone was so fucked up. Like you can't just be drunk and have fun. You need to be on drugs to enjoy yourself. " The blonde with short hair agreed. "I hated it. I mean it's out in the middle of the jungle. " They both agreed that the Full Moon Party, on the sands of Haad Rin and not inland, was much better. "It's just all happiness and everyone is having a great time! The beach is packed" said one of the blondes. Glancing around at a couple having a romantic hookah while an old dude drank a gin and tonic I found this hard to believe. Kez and the girls then proceeded to have a freak out fest about how fantastic Phi Phi was. Sigh. Note to self. Reseach, always research your trip beforehand. Or else you'll end up hanging with girls who dance by themselves.
We pressed on and decided to try again the
next night. People! There was people! And they were young and good looking! Apparently the island's hang-over day had ended and all was well in the world again. Plus more and more people were arriving due to the Full Moon Party happening in 4 days. Booze bucket hawkers started appearing crouched on their wooden sales stands, painted with crude phrases like "Fuck Bucket". I guess that makes me want a blue toy bucket of alcohol? The Thai fire boys appeared in all their grandness. Twisting and turning, whipping flames around the shirtless torsos, they looked surreal. Next up was some games outside the bar to get people liquored up and engaged. The fireboys brought out a thick, long rope and doused it with gasoline. These boys love their gasoline. They liberally poured it on the rope and down their throats as they quickly spewed it out again, lighting a torch on fire. The rope went from dusty brown to bright orange as they started spinning it from where they stood on stools. Every time the fiery snake thumped on the sand, it taunted the thrill seekers. Drunkards stumbled out into the spotlight the fire had made, as the beach party
goers formed a circle around the spectacle. Almost every person who went up against the rope, got hit in the foot, shoulder, or side. Luckily this did not burn them because the rope is spun too quickly to stay long on the skin. But there were some who luck forgot. I met a German guy and a French guy who both had bandages on their calves. These third degree burns required them to stay a week longer than they had planned. The worst of it was that they couldn't swim or drink for this week as well. Utter hell. These poor Europeans even had to pay a ton of money for an IV. Word got around on the beach that the fireboys are paid quite well by the pharmacy to burn foreigners. I have no idea if this is true, but I'd like to think it's not. You wonder though as you see foreigners limping by and hear OH MY GOD every couple of minutes as unprepared party goers get hit by that dangerous jump rope.
After seeing multiple people almost get burned to death, including my brother, I decided I needed to leave the fire extravaganza for a
bit. As I walked along the warm beach, stepping over discarded buckets and embracing couples, I looked down at my neon painted arm and decided it was okay that I had missed the Full Moon Party. I had gotten a taste and it would do for now. There will always be another full moon.
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