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It's not often that you get to visit a country for a day. Some do it on a visa run, some so that they can tick it off their country list. For us it was because of family and volcanic mist.
The eruption of the Eyjafjallajokull volcano in Iceland had caused all flights in and out of Europe to be cancelled. This quite unprecedented occurrence meant that nobody knew when they would be able to fly. Last time it happened the eruption lasted two years. Only a few days prior we had watched the shocking red shirt riots in Bangkok. We had joked at the time that they should call work and say that they could not return due to the protests in Bangkok. Then a volcano erupted. It was just meant to be.
Meanwhile Hannah and I were ambling our way up Laos. We stopped in Chiang Rai and the next day headed straight for the border, crossed the river, paid our visa fee and entered. As border towns go Huay Xai was one of the best. It was peaceful, there were no casinos or prostitutes in sight, and so we decided to spend the day relaxing and
planning our route for Laos. We happened to be staying right next to a
Beer Laos distributor and so naturally we acquainted ourselves with it. As we sat and drank the bubbly beer on our scorching rooftop terrace we pictured Ann, Gordon, Jessie and Harri in the sky, almost by that time home.
As the evening took shape and we were beginning to come to terms with dealing in three currencies (as most border towns do) we still had not received a txt of arrival. We thought this strange until we decided to go on the internet where we had received an email from Jessie of the news. We immediately tried to skype them and eventually we ascertained that they were going to be stuck in Thailand for quite a while.
Without hesitation we decided that tomorrow we would turn around and make the long journey back to Bangkok to meet them. It was going to be a shame to miss Laos but it's not everyday that a volcano erupts and your family is stuck in Thailand. We could not have enjoyed the laid back charm of Laos knowing that the family were just across the way.
The other significant piece of news that day was that Norwich had been promoted back to the championship at the first attempt. Volcano's should erupt more often!
Three local buses, a swangthaew and a sleeper bus later we were reunited with the gang. Ann and Gordon were looking as tired as we were due to all the commotion with various airlines. Qatar Airways had rescheduled their flight to the 26th April (ten days later) while Harriet's Jet Airways were saying nothing earlier than the 3rd May. At least we knew we had around a week to play with so decided to head south to Prachuap and some relaxation by the beach. By the time we arrived in the charming seaside town it had been a full thirty six hours since we left Laos.
Sun Beach Guesthouse, right on the promenade of Prachuap's main fishing bay, was the perfect remedy to the long journey. The rooms were air conditioned and spacious with a balcony overlooking the
swimming pool and even a view of the sea. It felt good to be back in the town where we had stayed on the way to Bangkok a few months ago.
Prachuap
is a place you instantly warm to. It's relaxed, you feel safe and it's warm too. It's beauty has not yet been flaunted in shiny brochures and tourism is not the main source of income.
Fishing is the family business in Prachuap. Men catch it, youngster's haul it in and women weigh and box it. You sense that life is good here as long as there's still fish in the sea. The fresh catch is dispatched to various towns and even laid out to dry on the promenade for all to see and smell. Gordon came back one morning with a bag full of twenty odd fish that had been given to him by a fisherman. So we did as the locals do and left some out to dry, deciding that the rest we should BBQ.
That evening with a grill and some charcoal bought from the local shop we walked the five metres from our guesthouse to the beach and barbied. Gordon and I set up the fire (eventually) whilst the rest
prepared vegetables and summoned the required amount of Chang. The sun was setting behind us as we sat on the beach nibbling our food as
it came. The relaxed mood was halted momentarily as a large centipede tried to make it's way into Harriet's hair. Luckily Han saw it coming and saved the day...they can be dangerous out here. The fish was delicious and just as we had BBQ'd them all another fisherman bought us a bigger bag full of fish before he paddled out to his boat to catch some more.
The next day we hired some motorbikes and headed to Ao Manao beach. In order to get there you have to go through a military base and sign in before you can enjoy the beautiful bay. The sun was hot and the sea even hotter as we paddled out. Due to the shallow waters it must be the warmest sea I have ever been in. If only the sea in England could be like that. We cruised the long bay on our bikes before going back to our guesthouse and freshening up before the evening.
Showered and changed we took the bikes to the aptly named monkey mountain for sunset. Last time Han and I had been we were very nearly bitten by a raging monkey. Jessie was apprehensive about the
long
monkey clad steps to the top but we all managed to get by without trouble. The reward was the most beautifully positioned temple in all of Thailand (in my opinion) that sits atop the three hundred and six
steps looking over it's town like something from a Disney film. From one side we watched the sun setting over the Burmese mountains and on the other the pink gulf of Thailand lapping at all of Prahuap's
curving bays. The golden stupa and gnarled cherry blossom trees enhanced by the sinking sun and orange robed Buddha. Conquer the monkeys to get to the top and experience the real life enchanted castle.
By the time we had meandered down the steps watching the monkeys as we went we had earned our chang and sipped the ice cold brew as we perused the night Market for dinner. Tempura prawns, vegetables and even octopus eggs were absolutely delicious sat under the stars at the spacious yet bustling Market.
We enjoyed our moto day so much that we did it again the next day and went to another bay called Ao Noi. We compiled a 7/11 picnic and sat on yet another deserted
beach. We played rounders with a log and catch in the sea until we dropped to our knees. That evening we had our second BBQ with even more fish and vegetables including corn on the cob. In a world now that "forbids" any mildly dangerous things like fire on a beach it was refreshing that nobody batted an eyelid here.
Due to the 24 hour nature of our bike rental we still had them until 1pm the next day. This gave us the opportunity to visit the caves near Ao Noi where down inside the dark caverns was a reclining Buddha and an army of sitting Buddha's. All very eerie in the darkness with only camera flashes lighting the way.
After all the adventures we had experienced before the volcano it was nice to have some time just relaxing together. Prachuap was the perfect place to enable us to stroll on the promenade and eat at some lovely seafood restaurants without being in a resort town.
Then it was time to check out of the excellent Sun Beach Guesthouse as Gordon, Ann and Jessie had the night train to Bangkok. We all moved our bags to Yuttichai
guesthouse, where Han, Harriet and I would stay that night, before we rented some bikes and went along the coast to the impressive Waghor Aquarium. Leopard sharks, giant grouper, turtles and manta rays later we scooted down to the isolated shore for some more beaching. It felt strange sat there on the shore, so far away from anywhere, that they would be back in England the next day. We had so enjoyed our time with them all and travelling together. Thailand had provided a bit of everything with the extended holiday making it complete. Then storms clouds came in and we had to retreat. As we raced back to Ao Manao I used the open runway of the military base to give Harriet a brief moped lesson. This was not too well received by the others who were keen to remind us that it was an active runway. Oops!
After dinner and a few drinks it was time to wave goodbye at the platform of Prachuap's quaint train station. It wasn't lost on Han nor I that last time it was they who were waving goodbye to us from a
train station. It was sad though the extra time
together made it less so and Harriet was still here with an extra ten days and her SULA on show.
Harriet's first night with us in traveller digs was not perfect. We were all woken at around 1am by intense rattling on the locked shutters of the building that in turn shook all the beds. It seemed someone was trying to get in or had lost their key. It continued on and off for three hours without reprieve, the constant shaking only abated when the person started ringing the buzzer or telephoning the guesthouse. The problem was that we were locked from the inside and so couldn't help. I still can't understand how nobody woke from the guesthouse...maybe Thai people are just deep sleepers.
The next day, with all the Guesthouse's shutters open, we left for Ranong, which was a 5 our train and bus journey south, to start our next adventure in Koh Phayam.
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mum backhouse
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It was so lovely to read all about our wonderful time together.. I never tire of reading your entries and now i feel i can picture you on your adventures. Great pics too.Have you spotted by an more travel editors?