Touring MHS with Mum and Dad

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May has been a busy month with a visit from Mum and Dad and an Australian work colleague, Michael. Mum and Dad joined me in Thailand for a couple of weeks to celebrate my 18th birthday. Ok so I may have made a slight typo but they say you are only as old as you feel! I took some leave from work and we spent a couple of days touring around MHS including 3 days in Soppong and a week in Chiang Mai.

In MHS we visited the following sights:

Thursday 7th May
Pha Sua waterfall
26 km from Mae Hong Son on the way to Ban Rak Thai. This waterfall is usually about six levels and 20 metres high in the rainy season but unfortunately as you can see from the photo it is not that spectacular in the dry season.

Ban Rak Thai
A further 20 km led us to Ban Rak Thai village, near the Thai-Burma border. Founded by Kuomintang Chinese soldiers, the village is famous for its breathtaking views and tea cultivation. The drive through the forests and pine was beautiful. We spent some time exploring the town; tasting Chinese tea and stepping on to Burmese soil while the Thai soldier wasn’t looking, no visa required!

Fish Cave (Thumpla)
On the way home we stopped at Fish Cave near Huay Pha village. It is actually a pool and stream at the base of a limestone outcrop not a cave with numerous freshwater carp known as Pla Mung or Pla Khang. The fish are quite safe from being caught as they are believed to belong to the gods. Thumpla is a beautiful place to escape the heat with surrounding areas being brooks and forests.

I was very proud of Dad’s motorbike riding efforts on our 90 km day trip up mountains to Ban Rak Thai. Even in this remote location we were able to find a Hmong village to get petrol and help repair a punctured tyre in under an hour. Only in Thailand they say, I tend to agree!

Monday 11th May
Ban Nam Pieng Din - Padaung village
We took a short boat ride along the Pai River to Ban Nam Pieng Din, about 18 km away from MHS town. It is home to the Long-necked Padaung tribe who wear numerous brass rings around their necks. The Padaung or Long Necks are Mongolian descendents and a minority group of the Karenni tribe. The Padaung have their own distinct language and cultural traditions, many follow an animist religion and some have integrated Buddist beliefs into their religious practices.

Young Padaung girls receive their first neck rings in a religious ritual and as they grow up one or two rings are added up until the age of about 16 creating the illusion that the neck is lengthened. The wearing of rings for Padaung women is a cultural expression and a vital part of their ethnic identity. The rings also play a social role with more being seen as a symbol of status for women. There are many misconceptions about the neck rings. The coils do not stretch or deform the neck and there is no danger if it is removed. However their collarbone and ribs are compressed and there is obvious discomfort in daily activities like having to use a straw to drink. Some coils have recorded as weighing 22kg and can lengthen the appearance of the neck by as much as 30 cm.

There are many legends and origins behind the ring wearing ritual. Padaung mythology says that the Mother of all Padaung’s was half woman, half dragon with a long, beautiful neck and that their unique custom is a tribute to their Mother Dragon. Other theories include the idea that the rings protected the women from tiger attacks; it was used to make the women look unattractive so other tribes would not capture them to sell as slaves; and an extra long neck was considered a sign of great beauty and brass a symbol of wealth attracting more men and increasing their choices of selecting a husband.

Of the 7,000 Padaung hill tribe members, 300 escaped the Burmese junta 20 years ago to Thailand. There are around 485 members now living in a few villages along the Thai-Burma border. Some have recently been allowed to apply for resettlement to New Zealand. As you can see from the photos the women still engage in normal activities even with wearing the coils and it is questionable if the tradition continues as a result of the tourism industry. Many tourists visiting Thailand travel to MHS just to see the Padaung long neck tribe. I am fortunate to see the beautiful Padaung ladies while I am shopping at the local market or visiting the camps but I thought a village trip would be worthwhile for my parents to do.

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