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While the main procession through the streets of Mae Hong Son began on the 2 April 2009, we had seen the Shan, parading around the town with their young boys over the last 2 weekends. They had travelled around the market, shops and temple where stall holders had given them offerings and gifts. The “gonging” sound of their chimes was a familiar sound but nothing compared to the noise that resonated throughout the night before the procession, with the Chinese temple being quite close to our humble abode. Families were preparing their sons for the big spectacle the next day through the streets of MHS and no doubt the men had been drinking long into the night. They had to celebrate as well!
The noise at the Temple was just an entrée for what was to come. What a sight! Nothing can prepare you for the glorious display of colour, costumes, make up, traditional Shan music and dancing of Poi Sang Long. The ceremony means Festival of the Crystal Sons and is practiced by the Shan people of Burma and Northern Thailand. It is a rite of passage undertaken by boys between 7-14 years old. Its origins go back to
Buddhist legend when the son of Buddha gave up his worldly possessions to follow his Father’s teachings and became the first novice Buddhist monk and youngest ordained monk.
As a part of the ceremony young boys have their heads shaved by family members, are anointed with herbal waters and then dressed to resemble princes from past eras. Their faces are covered in make-up to look as beautiful as possible and then the-would be novice Buddhist monks are carried around temples to seek forgiveness from the abbots. Each boy is assigned 3 family members to accompany him on his rounds - to carry him, carry the umbrella to protect him from the sun and the other to protect his jewels. Each member takes turns carrying him and his feet are only allowed to touch the ground inside a family home or a temple for the duration of the ceremony.
It is a 3 day ceremony and we were witnessing the last of it - when the procession is held.
After parading through the streets the boys go through the formal Poi Sang Long ordination ceremony, including the taking of Buddhist vows and removing their lavish clothes and makeup in
exchange for the robes of a novice Buddhist monk. It is believed that by participating in the Poi Sang Long ceremony and joining the monkhood the boys will gain merit for their parents.
This event is unique to MHS and definitely something worth seeing. The procession started at 8am and Lou and I took the first couple of hours off from work to attend. We watched in fascination as the vibrant, colourful and captivating Shan ceremony took to the streets of MHS. The floats and musicians were buzzing with energy as they took pride in showcasing their Shan culture and traditions. The atmosphere was so infectious that towards the end of the procession Lou and I couldn’t help ourselves but to just join in on all the dancing and fun.
The parade ended up at the Chong Klang Temple overlooking the pond and as we walked back to retrieve our motorbikes we stumbled across a shop were a man was holding a slow loris. Definitely a beautiful little creature with amazing eyes.
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