Laid Back Chiang Mai

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As the monsoon rains arrived with fervor, I too arrived in the laid back city of Chiang Mai. This city, Thailand’s second city has a very different vibe than Bangkok. Of course, it is striving like Bangkok to become more modern, more hip, more western but it still has a laid back feel to it. Maybe because its backdrop is the surrounding mystical mountains, the south part of the great Himalyahn mountain, that embrace this moated old city which contains hundreds of sacred temples, with chedi and gabled rooftops that soar skyward. Chiang Mai and the Northern provinces history and culture are influenced by the Shan state of present-day Myanmar, neighbouring parts of Laos and even the southern mountains of China. Also prevalent is the Thai-Muslim community; a remnant from the days when Chiang Mai was a detour on the Silk Road and within the past two centuries the Yunnanese Muslims escaping unrest in neighbouring Laos and Burma.
I arrived on a Sunday just in time for the Sunday Walking Market where vendors set up their goods along Th Ratchadamnoen all the way from a square in front of Pratu Tha Phae to Wat Phra Singh. Many of the products are handmade in and around Chiang Mai such as cotton scarves, leather sandals and wood carvings. The best part for me was not the shopping but the temples along the way that were alive with food stalls selling northern Thai cuisine. The grounds of Chedi Luang were particularly bright and full of worshippers and tourists some praying, some eating. This market is a reminder of the merchant tradition of the ancient Chinese caravans.
Chiang Mai’s historic area is the old city surrounded by a wall which has four gates and within its walls contains most of the important swats (temples) of this city. The most impressive temple for me was Wat Chedi Luang. It is built around a partially ruined Lanna-style chedi dating from 1441 and is said to have been one of the tallest structures in ancient Chiang Mai. A few theories have circulated as to how it was damaged. One being an earthquake in the 16th century and the other being damage from the cannon fire of King Taksin in 1775 during the recapture of Chiang Mai from the Burmese. A restoration of the impressive chedi was financed by Unesco and the Japanese government. On the southern side of the monument are five elephant sculptures; four are cement restorations. Only one on the far right without ears and a trunk is original brick and stucco.
In the main wi-hahn is the standing Buddha, known as Phra Chao Attarot, with two disciples at its side, both renowned for meditation and mysticism.
The temple I found most beautiful is Wat Phan Tao which contains a beautiful old teak wi-hahn that was once a royal residence. It constructed of moulded teak panels fitted together and supported by 28 teak pillars. The wi-hahn features naga bargeboards with coloured mirror mosaics.

And of course, no visit to Chiang Mai would be complete without a Thai massage of which I did indulge.

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Comments

[anonymous]

Such beautiful colours! Such a nice way to end your time on the Asian leg of this incredible journey...your next trick will be to transplant the inner beauty and tranquility of your learning into your life back in North America. I think you will have to teach many of us how to do this!!! kevin