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Published: December 14th 2011
After our relaxing week on Koh Tao we boarded the ferry, (this time to much calmer seas) for the Koh Samui airport and week two of our Thailand adventure. After an uneventful flight we arrived in Chang Mai in Northern Thailand. Chang Mai is a mid- size, modern city by Thailand standards, surrounded by dense jungle, mountains and rich farmland. The colors are rich, the food is delectable and we found the people warm and friendly. Our time in Chang Mai was filled with temple tours, the company of elephants, wilderness adventures, vast markets filled with silks and handicrafts and delicious and varied foods.
Chang Mai is known for its temples. There are as many temples in this small city as there are in Bangkok. The décor is colourful, filled with rich golden Buddha’s and brightly painted murals. Monks wander the grounds in the orange and brown robes, often taking as many pictures as the other tourists. Perhaps the most lovely of the temples is Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, named for the mountain it is located on, 15 km outside of the city of Chang Mai. A steep climb to the top, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, boasts a
panoramic view of the city below. What a blessing it was to just sit in the quiet of the temple or in the beautiful gardens and enjoy the stillness.
One afternoon in Chang Mai we wondered into a city temple that houses a Buddhist University and enjoyed the opportunity to sit with the young novices and chat about their life as young monks, Buddhism in Thailand and what their meditation experience is like. The Monk Chat, as it was called, was actually part of their curriculum. I think we through them off their game a bit when we started talking about the meditation experience. They didn’t have the English for their experience, nor to understand ours…. Though they could describe in detail and very adequate English their daily life. When I did ask the young monk what the most important lesson he learned was he replied. “Listen to no teacher, or teachings. Trust your own experience.” These words took my breath away and warmed my heart.
Chang Mai also offered some amazing shopping. Our first night, we enjoyed a street market filled with local handicrafts, and food vendors. We just had to try the Thai sausage
to see if it compared to German Bratwurst…. It didn’t quiet make the grade, though still very tasty, as were the chicken satay and fresh local strawberries. We finished our night market experience with a foot massage on the street and met a lovely woman from Belgium who now lives in Chang Mai and exports silver jewelry; an excellent contact. One day we visited a silk factory and saw how the silk is made, worms and all. It was amazing to watch the weavers, weaving the fabric and then see the bolts of silk and the lush colours displayed in the showroom.
Our most adventure filled day included an elephant training camp, an afternoon hike and a ride on a bamboo raft down a crocodile infested river. Adventurous for sure! We actually wanted to go to the elephant sanctuary, I am not certain whether it was the language barrier or an intentional redirection, but somehow we found ourselves on the backs of two rather large elephants tramping through the jungle. I have to admit I rather liked my little guy. His name was Dodo and he gave great elephant kisses. Lucas, on the other hand, was on a giant
elephant, the patriarch of the pack, who lumbered along a very relaxed pace at the front of the line for most of the ride. At the end of the ride, we all jumped into the river with the elephants. We gave them a good brush and a wash and in return they gave us a lovely elephant shower. After a delicious Thai picnic lunch, we were off again for a visit to the hill tribes, where we met a young woman who was busily weaving amazing scarves and other items with a traditional hill tribe loom made of sticks. Needless to say, we brought some home.
Our adventure filled day included a short hike to a beautiful waterfall and a trip, through the lush jungle, on a bamboo raft. I should have known I was in trouble when the tour guide strongly suggested we change into something we didn’t mind getting wet. The bamboo raft barely stayed above the water and was guided by a Thai gent with a long pole. I was surprised, (and pleased) at how well our very basic raft handled the rapids. I was also happy to note the snakes in the trees as we
floated by and glad that they weren’t in the water with us. It was also a bonus that no crocodiles popped up as we cruised down the river. The best part however, was Lucas yodeling on a bamboo raft in the middle of a northern Thailand jungle. It was obvious; he was having a good time.
Our time in Chang Mai was far to short and before we knew it we were back in a plane heading for Bangkok. Truthfully, we didn’t fall in love with Bangkok the way we did with Chang Mai. We found ourselves in the old quarter of town, close to the Kings Palace, Koa San (the backpackers district) and other tourist attractions. The weather was hot and humid and not much was within walking distance so we availed ourselves of the Tuk Tuks and set out to see the city. The tuk tuks were a little challenging. We are experienced hagglers, having spent time in India, but so were the tuk tuk drivers and we know for certain that more often than not, we paid far more than we should of. That became obvious when we started taking cabs and it cost
us half what the tuk tuks did and we were in air-conditioned comfort. Not to mention that many of the tuk tuks didn’t know how to get where we wanted to go, but could sure find the “factories” and “tailors” where they received a gas coupon for dropping us off there.
I am also happy to report that most of Bangkok is in fine shape. There are some places that still show signs of flooding… Like the riverside restaurant where the kitchen floor was covered in water and the cooks were wearing gumboots and the only access was a path of sandbags… But most of Bangkok showed few signs of the massive flooding that was reported.
Our time in Bangkok included a tour of the King’s Palace the weekend of his 84
th birthday celebration. The Palace and the temple it houses are spectacular. Our funny little guide named “Cindy” gave us a brisk tour of it all, sharing anecdotes about the history. Apparently the ashes of the Buddha were sent to every Buddhist country in Asia and some are housed in one of three towers in the temple. It was fascinating to watch all the preparations
going on for the King’s birthday celebration as well. Their people love the King and Queen of Thailand dearly. I was surprised to read that it is a crime to speak against the Thai monarch and more than one foreigner has been called on the carpet for questioning their beloved royals.
We also took a trip to Chinatown and experienced the worlds best Peking duck. This was just one of many incredible meals we enjoyed that included traditional Thai, Vietnamese, Korean barbeque and hearty western breakfasts. We will definitely leave Thailand with many fond memories of the delicious cuisine.
Our last night in Bangkok will go down as one of the best evenings ever! We decided to treat ourselves to a five star hotel and roof top dining based on the recommendations of a lovely gentleman we met on the flight to Chang Mai. We checked into the Lebua at State Towers our last night and we treated to a luxurious suite with a bathtub! Yes, sometimes it is the little things like a bathtub that make all the difference. We were on the 51
st floor and looked out on the river. After a
day of shopping and lunch sitting by the river, we dolled ourselves up and heading for the Breeze restaurant and bar. The Breeze is a rooftop restaurant on the 52
nd floor of the hotel with views of Bangkok below. We started our evening with a glass of champagne sitting at the bar, followed by a five course chef’s dinner and wine pairing. The meal was amazing! The view was incredible! And the romance factor was off the scale.
All and all, Thailand was amazing. Through out our time here, whenever we saw a Thai sign or heard Thai spoken, Lucas would quip… “It’s all Spanish to me!” I wonder, will they speak Spanish in Australia too… Until next time from Aussie land…
Lucas and Cheryl
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Phyllis Norquay
non-member comment
Chiang Mai and Bangkok
I have some friends that spend most of the year in Chiang Mai, Bangkok and Vietnam. They love it and go to doctors and dentists while there. They also send me e-mails of their adventures, but they are mostly about food. What a life!!