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Published: August 8th 2007
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It has been a while since I updated my Travel Blog and that's partly because I wasn't that impressed with my next destination; Chiang Mai. Or more likely because I'm a lazy ass!
I met some travellers in Bangkok who asked if I'd been to Chiang Mai yet and reckoned I hadn't seen Thailand until I had. Chiang Mai is said to be Thailand's second capital. But what I found in Chiang Mai was hundreds of 'English Pubs'! The street was literally lined with bar after bar of typically named pubs, decked out with pool tables and huge wide, flat screen televisions presenting round the clock premiere league football coverage. I was astonished that such a culture rich town could be spoiled with such a large amount of tack. I ignored my better judgement and had dinner over a game (shame on me). And afterwards I got chatted up by the Thai bar girl. Lucks in I thought. I played her at pool, we chatted a bit and then she asked if I would like to pay her manager and take her out for the night. I thought that a bit odd and then she asked bluntly whether I would
like to sleep with her! She would look after me with breakfast in the morning too. She was quite sweet but clearly not at all innocent. I had heard of too many blokes getting involved in 'romances' that basically end in empty wallets if your lucky or tears if your not. Thai trouble is not something to get yourself involved in.
Chiang Mai's surroundings can be quite lovely but at this time of year the air is hazed with smog in parts from slash and burn which lingers in the air and spoils the view of Chiang Mai from the nearby mountains. And I couldn't quite get past the arrogant tuk tuk drivers that overcharged me when I arrived at the bus station; since I've grown to detest this particularly sleazy group of money grabbers who will linger around you like a bad smell or simply refuse to leave you alone. I was tired arriving in Chiang Mai and I didn't get off to a good start.
Well, after all it had been a long days journey from Bangkok which incidentally was not half bad but still it's never good to arrive somewhere late in the day. I
had made the effort to trek across Bangkok with my backpack where I found the government run bus services station and myself in first class on an air conditioned bus with bags of leg room, blankets, reclining seats, footrests, regular snacks, refreshments and lunch included; and all for less than I would have paid for one of the double decker cattle runners the tour companies employ down Khao San Road. No wonder some Thais habitually consider us westerners a little bit 'thick'.
Still I decided to give Chiang Mai about 5 days before running off and started to enjoy myself. I stayed in a basic but nice guest house called the Golden Fern. I went up Doi Suthep, a mountain near Chiang Mai. There I visited the zoo, the important Buddhist temple Wat Phrathat and the grounds around the winter Palace for the Royal Family. I hired a scooter and sailed around the scenic 100km forested Samoeng loop east of Chiang Mai and Mae Rim. In the evenings I pondered the huge traditional night markets and forgot where I was with a blockbuster movie at the cineplex and modern shopping mall there.
I am pleased to say that
I did have a highlight in Chiang Mai and that was the rock climbing at the 'Crazy Horse Buttress'. First time up a cliff face and I was terrified. I took a one day Introduction to Top Rope Climbing and Rappelling. We were taught to use the harness, carabiners, tie our own knots and how to 'Belay' my climbing partner. I had to cope with vertigo and the associated leg wobble that hit whenever I got stuck, usually hanging on for dear life half way up. The first time I fell off the rock face I wasn't at all sure I wouldn't fall to my doom! But my trusty partner was there to make sure I didn't fall far and hanging there it's back on the rock to try again. I thought I did pretty well considering the grade of the climbs. At the end of the day I abseiled myself down a vertical drop - dangling into the belly of a 'monstrous' cave. The cave wasn't that scary but the 50m drop certainly was. I thought it would be a breeze until I went over the edge. I found the whole day physically challenging - it's much harder than
it looks. You need to be seriously fit to climb and I don't know how on earth some of the more advanced climbers managed to ascend the rocks they did that day. I had a great time but my arms, butt, legs and toes were totally shot by the end of it as I bailed out of the last climb. That night I slept extremely well and ached for days afterwards.
After the excitement I took off north to Doi Chiang Dao to recover for a few days and explore some caves. Only I ended up doing a 10km hike up hill with Trevor, a guy in his 70s, who was armed with a GPS and more than enough enthusiasm. By the end of the day he was leaving me behind for dead. Just something else to remind me how unfit I was!
By that time my visa was running out fast. I soon had to make a bee line for the border. Naughty me I overstayed my visa but only by one day. Still it wasn't much of a fine and they don't remove hands or fingers for such minor infringements. And so I entered Laos.
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Jonathan Tully
non-member comment
Hello
Hi Steve - Glad to hear you're still having some great adventures. I came home early June and after a few months of pottering about it's now time to get a job! If you get the chance to go, South America is very nice - I preferred it to asia!! All the best, Jonathan